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Post by velociraptor on May 1, 2016 16:09:49 GMT -5
This is a good plug chop after a good speed run for about ten mins with the rejet and k &n style intake. Next is to fine tune the transmission to match the power
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Post by velociraptor on May 3, 2016 22:34:33 GMT -5
Well one problem after the other lol been dealing with a stint of bad luck with health ect now I guess it's my scoots turn, the month or so old very few miles on it variator didn't feel right rebel I know you at least can see the fb video of my lil test run it normally maxes a good speed I won't lie I mean it's still a 50 but I love the way the motor responds .....just wasnt cutting it would Rev out...well the back plate for the actual variator was stripped at the shaft, I was kind of worried it would happen as the teeth were not well cut. I do have a spare however it doesn't fix the damage already done to the belt planning on moving up to a bando now that the engine has a decent power band. Anywho success only comes with failures behind it
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Post by velociraptor on May 3, 2016 22:58:55 GMT -5
The stripped plate Old variator plate OK thoughts upon disassembly after prying the plate off: "new" variator is a tad smaller idk how well the pics show and the belt leaves 4mm approx space of sharpie mark at top end on each when functioning properly.....the smaller variator would then also be a lower top speed being a smaller diameter by a few mms. The plate I had noticed after delivery a while back the teeth were a bit shallow as well and I had reason to worry apparently. Anyways been using 6.5 +\- gram rollers that it came with. I ordered a few sliders and definitely not using the parts supplier that sold the variator again as well so hopefully I'll get this tuned right
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Post by velociraptor on May 15, 2016 11:57:08 GMT -5
Well turns out looking for the OEM DC stator is next to impossible for me to find so I did a lil more wiring under the stator seeing if it helps. Also found a cruddy lead on the signal wire along with the pickup coil not sitting close enough
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Post by velociraptor on May 15, 2016 18:22:10 GMT -5
If the spark was having issues I would think the plug would come back looking wet or at least sooty from unburnt fuel or weak spark it's showing clean burn so wth was that wire? All I know is motor runs fine I think but seems to lack power idk if the finicky sputtering set off my sliders in the trans so I'll check that first then go back to this. Idk this thing I'm about tempted to strip it down rewire and start over with a new setup and system from another bike, e ton gas been hell to find the right DC parts ...supposedly it's DC but everywhere offers AC I know it's DC but everywhere still offers AC for it.....makes zilch worth of sense
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Post by Rebel on May 15, 2016 21:36:08 GMT -5
I went looking for a dc stator for you too and could not find one
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Post by velociraptor on May 15, 2016 23:11:12 GMT -5
Best way I can word it is as a temp fix rewiring the AC stator to DC worked however idk if it's the stator or something else in the scoot heck the cdi I got used idk just yet but I have the issue of the black wire shorting out and dealt with a few minor issues... Idk just yet when I have some free time maybe tomorrow I'll even update this and let y'all know what's up.
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Post by velociraptor on May 16, 2016 1:08:59 GMT -5
what it looks like is the black wire is only to the cdi and two other things on the engine end before ending (multiple black wires) and was never used for the stator nor coil........ Idk I'm about lost ATM it ran fine last year I'm gonna tear the harness apart and figure out what's up.
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Post by velociraptor on May 16, 2016 19:09:00 GMT -5
I should reword this all simply: black wire on coil I found when removed from the coil, the engine runs what seems halfway fine and revs, with it hooked up after a few seconds the engine refuses to rev up eventually dying out as if dead batt. With the wire removed it feels like it lacks power though. Stator output when running is 13-14v at the batt depending on rpm. Stator has a black wire also on the frame of the stator which kind of confused me as stated when removing the black wire from the coil it sparks a tad off time to the ignition timing. It may seem simple to someone not here but to me atm it's confusing as heck. Everything is hooked up as stock cdi functions and was tested previously using an analog meter tested fine, does this with two diff ignition coils. Wiring diagrams are zero help the wire barely exists. If this wire is a ground makes no sense why it's hooked up everywhere on grounded pieces to begin with......
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Post by velociraptor on May 16, 2016 21:32:14 GMT -5
OK myinds a bit jumbled right now I have no idea if anyone's even reading this lol or thinks I'm a attention grabber or something lol but anyways I've been really trying to read up and so far it seems that e tons wiring is a bit mixed compared to other brands the schatics I have do not show all the wiring or correct coloring of the wires. I'm about tempted to rewire the entire thing but with these schatics idk if I can do it correctly. I've been tempted to just rewire it to a jog type setup which that I'm debating I want good performance out of it which I've learned to understand is having a DC setup I believe and jog is AC . I ran continuance on the wires to the stator ...only the black ground lug connected to the stator frame is well....grounded all coil wires are together no shorts. Battery charges fine cdi since the day it was replaced even before then it was acting like this. Here's the kicker is the cdi supposed to have a high pitched low volume whine coming from it? Also does anyone have a complete harness and ignition setup?(stator cdi coil wires ect?) They are willing to sell?
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Post by velociraptor on May 16, 2016 23:33:37 GMT -5
OK well I did not like the way it came out it works buuut the more I thought about it the more I realised this plate does not slide, the starter clutch is toothed as well and I have no elec start connected at all currently not even the motor. I can weld the old clutch plate to the back plate for now as there was a washer in between anyways...word of warning I'm not doing so for a permanent repair as it will be a pain every time work is needed on the plus side will prevent stripping so easy as it's got more bite and thickness.....however this is just till I can afford parts, the starter clutch is junk anyways, no rollers in it.
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Post by velociraptor on May 16, 2016 23:36:35 GMT -5
Once I get the clutch plate fixed I had an idea about the wiring......I don't know but I have a thought that the black wire was possibly originally booked to the pickup coil mount NOT the stator metal which could make a difference as the stator steel is still essentially passing the magnets? Idk but looking at the old stator it did not seem to be bolted to it via marking
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Post by velociraptor on May 23, 2016 19:23:56 GMT -5
As I keep getting screwed Everytime I go to work on this I'm just going to hold up and possibly put a new variator ect on it. I found that the black wire still seems to be acting as it was still an AC stator it has the correct charging but with the black wire screwed to the coil it cuts out without it it runs but runs a lil weak feeling. I figured out that the orig wire was I believe elsewhere on the OEM stator and I may either just buy a used OEM or hope for the best as nobody seems to have the DC OEM one. It's frustrating.
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on May 23, 2016 20:47:04 GMT -5
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Post by velociraptor on May 24, 2016 10:48:46 GMT -5
Hey any help is appreciated. My problem is my camera is shot and any pics I have of the orig wiring are worthless they are so blurry
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