Madd Maxx EAGLE, custom build...

[kliff]

Yeah, like I once said, these things are gonna be like Lays tater chips...can't do just one.

So, inspired by [glow=red,2,300]gy6rocket[/glow] and [glow=red,2,300]shookupart[/glow], not to mention the "ole man" comments on the Ruckus Forum(LMAO!), seriously, I luv those youngsters, they think way outside the box! I decided to start work on a "Bobber" project. A "bobber" in cycledom, is a bike that has had everything unneeded removed, and at least some minor power additions thrown in the mix.


So Wednesday, I'm heading for Atlanta to pick up another scoot, and get started. Ain't gonna be quick, as I've got other projects already on the fire, but stay tuned, rocket & shook done started a fire... I'm gonna run with it too. All detailed with pics, from the engine up grades, to frame mods & paint. By Thusday, I should at least have some pics of the sacrificial lamb up...after that.

Damn the torpedoes, FULL speed ahead!

[glow=red,2,300]Quick Reference Upgrades[/glow]

26Mar09

1500 RPM torque spring
14/37 (2.64:1 ratio) installed
High Angle, teflon coated variator installed
11.5gr rollers
Gates PowerLink Belt

27Mar09

Valves lightenned and swirl polished
(int valv, 25.9>25.7= .2gr reduction)
(exh valv, 19.4>19.3= .1gr reduction)
Rocker arms lightenned and polished
(ex rocker, 40.5gr >36.6gr = 4.0gr reduction)
(in rocker, 41.1gr > 36.9gr = 4.2gr reduction)
Intake and exhaust port matched
K&S super duty valve springs installed
Ring end gap set at .009"
59mm piston & cylinder installed
Head re-assembled and installed with A-9 cam

Now, down to bidness....
Picked up a larger frame, 150 tourer today, cosmetic damage, not running, 766 miles, for $300.00
Different frame design than that of shook or gy6rocket, but should make an interesting "Bobber." Got a feeling the cut & chop pile is gonna get rather extensive though, starting with every last piece of plastic and the seat!







Well, why we're waiting, decided to get started on some power unit mods.
Started by fabbing the exhaust flange, and anti-reversion nipple...



Yeah, that pic is a little confusing, but you'll see more romorrow, as I start port matching it to the head.

So, on to the drive unit.
Tore everything apart and cleaned with brake cleaner, then openned up the gear box and swapped some 15/37 NCY gears in, utilizing a new countershaft gear as well.





Added a 1500rpm torque spring...



Installed a new "race variator, teflon lined, with 11.5gr weights and a new power-link belt, and painted the clutch drum.



The original sleeve for the variator didn't want to slide easily on the new variator. So a light polish on the buffing wheel of the sleeve with some black rouge, and a light internal polish og the variator hub wit some 320 wet paper, and she's slipping and a sliding like grease on glass now!

Details guys, preassemble, find any problems, and square them away BEFORE final assy...

Tomorrow, some port matching of the head, lighgtenning the rocker arms, KS super duty valve springs, ring end gap adjustments....and just maybe we'll put that little 59mm top end on....LOL ;D


Got the top end on today...



Lightenned the valves, and swirl polished, lightenned the rockers...





Port matched the intake, and exhaust rversion nipple...



Openned up this flashing for improved air flow across the combustion chamber.



Couldn't do nuttin' without my trusty scales.....LOL!




The sacrificial lamb is here...





....she's gonna get her guts ripped out soon.... gonna have this thrown in there.



But to get to that point, this morning I started finishing up the exhaust. Goal #1 was to flow well in all rpm ramnges and avoid "drag-pipe-itis," the tuning nite mare that comes with LONG straight pipes, without baffles. They'll tune, but usually to one narrow rpm band and be either fat or lean off the sweet spot no matter what you do.
So I fabbed up the exhaust port nipple with a 1" i.d for 2"



Then, a 1.125" i.d. section, about 12" long, utilizing the sharp step at the port nipple for initial reversion prevention. Then we jump to a 1.375" i.d tubing for about 8" into the muffler, which has a 1.25" straight through core.



And finally to a 1.750" outlet with a strictly ornamental "Fishtail."



If all works well, this should be a well balanced system, with ultimate tuneability, regardless of rpm range.... if not, I guess I forgot something about my last 40 years...and back to the drawing board....LOL. We'll see soon enough.

Now, in response to MedMan... how did I go about lightenning my valves and rocker arms.

Simply put, material removal. How much and where....ahh, that is the question...
Rocker arms. The amount remoed can be seen in the side by side pics. Is this critical...YOU BET YOUR BUTT IT IS! Scew it up, and wipe out your cam...quick, as in seconds after initial start up. First, clean everyting, dissassemble the head, remove the valve springs. Apply machinist dye to the contact patch on the rocker arms, Install the cam, rockers etc, still without valve or springs. Rotate the cam, applying presure to the rocker on the cam by hand. You want the cam lobe to "mark the machinist die." Now dissassemble and look carefully at the contact patch. ith a scribe and straight edge, draw a border around the patch, in the virgin dye, about .020" away from the patch area. Now, all that blue area, outside the scribe line, can be removed. But slowly, without over heating the rocker. NO heat discoloration allowed! I use a 2"x72" knife making belt sander, and work bare handed so I can feel heat build-up, and quinch the part frequently in water. When taperring the back of the rocker, always do it in length with the arm, do NOT go cross grain. Yes, metal has "grain," and cross grain creates stress line, which lead to fractures...




Valve lightenning is a little easier....
Chuck the valve in a lathe, and spin a good rate, I like about 1000rpm. The withn a dremel tool and a sanding drum, start polishing the back of the head, slowly working up the stem. Concetrate on the head of the valve though. Again, low teps, liuttle pressure...take your time. A light swirl poilsh here will work wonders on mid-range and upper rpm ranges.

The lightenning of both components, add to valve spring and cam life, "spin up" is quicker too....MUCH quicker with lightenned valve train components.

Stock


After swirl polishing/lightenning

[kliff]

The saga continues....

Started sripping the Sporty today, and fitting the new power unit all at the same time...



The short case 150 "hanger mount" position the power unit too far tho the right, about 1 & 1/4" too far. So I tried the MC-13 mount, and while it will center the power train, the frame connection points aren't exactly what I want. So, out comes the band saw and welder...I'll make a hybrid mount out of the 2, and pick up a couple of extra inches on wheelbase too!
So far the long case gave me 2 additional inches, from 50>52", and the hybrid mount looks like I'll pull out, yet another 2.5", for a total wheelbase of 54.5"
Not bad for a small frame scooter...

So far...







Back on the build today, narrowed the engine hanger, lined it all back up, clamped her down and welded...







Made a strut rod to adjust the modded hanger....no mo' rubber baby buggy bumprs on the rocker, no mo'!



With the "long case" CVT unit, I did pick up 2 additional inches of wheel base. But with the modification a, d installation of the MC-13 hanger mount, and the home grown adjusting link, I picked up another 3 inches. New wheel base on the small frame...55"
But with that extension, comes relocating the top shock mounts too...



Tomorrow, back to stripping body work, so I can start on the front end...LOL....modifying the wiring harness, alterring controls, installing the oil cooler....



Not much to report this week... started fabbing the seat mounts, rear deck for the 2.25gl "Moon" style tank, and working on the floor boards. Should have unloaded the shop for this pic.....but, had too many other fires going, and just took a shot this morning, while working on a damaged head...





I did start fabbing the electrical center, and horizontal mount oil cooler, mainly for more capacity, but when all the ducting is added, I'm sure it will be a benefit, and the fan....of course the holes aren't there yet, but a pressure switch will be incorporated in the rear brake hydraulic circuit, so at long stop lights, a little air can be maintained across the cooler (33cfm fan + natural thermal convection) which should be better than nuttin...



And here's a junky pick of the floor board again, duck boards, and a switch box....no, it ain't gonna mount there...LOL.



And more of the fuel tank rack, next week, she'll get the .50 cal ammo cans added as side boxes.....LOL





Mo' pics guys...









Where did Maxx go!



Finally stripped to the bare frame, AGAIN, more cutting, grinding, welding, rivetting, and some paint....the resurrection begins tomorrow!

[kliff]

Just for my own piece of mind, and to prevent confusion, I think all future posting on Maxx will be here.

[Rebel]

Maxx is going to look good, love the keg for a fuel tank.

[Rocketdog]

Koolness Kliff. Reminds me of the old TV show "Rat Patrol". I like it.

[kliff]

May 16, 2009 7:17:25 GMT -5 JR said:

Man Kliff You're making my mouth water!! Took a sporty and Bali and combined them, ya have just got to be kin to me somehow!! LOL Hey I kind of got lost in the shuffle, ya mentioned the oil cooler but so far haven't seen where it's going? The fan is for it too? What cfm is it? The reason I ask is when I put the fan on mama's cooler I talked to a guy at a computer shop and he told me he gave his old crashed computers to his brother just 5 miles up the road as he strips them out for the copper.

His brother is on disability and I went up there and I kid you not he had a pile of these fans already removed 4ft high!!! Computer fans are 95% of the time 12vdc and some even have the cfm on them labeled but if they don't you can look them up on the net!! They also will have the amp load or watt rating on them as we all know with the GY-6 ya have to watch that. They are 3 and 4" and I picked out 3 from the pile that were rated at less than a 1/2 amp and found one that was 95 cfm! So if ya need another one let me know and I'll go take a look. He wanted to give them to me but I said no way with him on disability and I finally got him to take $2 a piece for them!! He even had a battery so I could make sure they ran good. Ya buying a cooling system or going to make your own? I know a nut who figured out how to build one!!! LOL JR

Hey jr....yeah the fan is for the cooler. What I'm working on is a remote mounted additional sump, to increase oil capacity. So to start I orderred the oil cooler kit, and will mount the cooler horizontally, to mimmic the sump I'm working on. And since it is a cooler, it will naturally radiate some heat, noit as efficiently as a cooler in the windstream, but minimally at least, but with a fan, operated through the brake light switch, whenever in heavy stop and go traffic, or long stop lights, I can still pull temp out of the engine, I normally couldn't.
The fan is a 56cfm 'puter unit, draws less than 1 amp, should be no sweat with all running, turn, and brake lights LED. High beam only will be a 35w halogen.

Eventually, this will evolve into a sump, cooler, and 4" O'berg filter, with total oil capacity in the 2 quart range, and no excess strain on the pump, as everything will be mounted at normal sump levels.

[kliff]

May 16, 2009 19:56:26 GMT -5 JR said:

I got ya, this coming week if I have a chance I'll stop and visit with the scrap computer guy and see if I can get lucky and find another one of those 95cfm fans! They only draw 0.36 amp!! JR

That would be cool! no pun intended...LOL

[phaze5]

is it done or did kaos steal that too hahaha

[kliff]

Nah, kaos ain't stealing this, and he sure hasn't got the skill, tools, or inteligence...heavy on NO INTELIGENCE, to be able to copy it...

We're into final fitment and assembly...oil cooler first.



Boxes, exhaust, seat, tailight...







Floorboards, shrapnel guard...

[Rebel]

You are certainly making a unique ride there guy, I love it!

[kliff]

Model "A" you say...... yessir, modern SS replica, but definitely an "A"



How about the tractor style fuel cap vent...



First time in over a month, both wheels hae been installed, at the same time.... lot of nit pickin' stuff to do yet, but Maxx is again, a "roller."

[kliff]

Since Maxx is now a roller, I decided to roll it outside, so I could clean and put away some tools, to get ready for the wiring harness mod/fab.

And while it was outside, a few "unclutterred shots, before the heat shrink, solder, and wire come out....we're getting close now guys...

[theswede]

NICE!
I must admit I was a bit skeptic about how the end result would look but now that I see the (almost) finished result I can only say this is one of the coolest scooters I have seen!

I really like the clean look of it, hope you are able to hide the wiring and tubing so it doesn't interfere too much.

/Otto

[Rebel]

Looking sweet, have you checked out the seat for angle fit and comfort, can't imagine not having sat on it at this time, but for a long ride I was thinking it might have been nice to be able to adjust the angle as comfort dictates.

[xs650]

I love the floorboards, add alot to the overall appearance. I hope you are going to paint the fork sliders and headlight.
I like the engine out in the open where it can be seen.