My United Motors Xpeed 250i/Hyosung MS3 Experience

[harrywr2]

May 9, 2009, 5:40pm

Went for a 5 hour/210 mile ride...bikes in good shape...my backside isn't.

[harrywr2]

May 13, 2009 18:51:55 GMT -5 JR said:

Ok you should have it all now! LOL My face ain't to good right now as the UFO appeared today called the sun and I went for a 40 mile round trip ride with nothing but the goggles on my head, that slick spot on my skull is mighty red from the UFO's beams of light!!

THe UFO didn't come here today. Hovered around an hour or so yesterday in the afternoon and shot off to parts unknown. One of the passes was closed for snow last night.

[harrywr2]

Last time I checked the plug it looked pretty black...like I was running a bit rich..NGK tech manual says it could be from running too rich or running too cold of a plug. Checked the Hyosung manual and approved plugs are CR7E(hot), CR8E(normal) and CR9E)cold. So I figured I would try a CR7E.
My theory is that ethanol burns colder then gasoline so I may need a hotter plug then factory recommended since we don't have gasoline here with less then 10% ethanol.

Idled it for 10 minutes in the garage(not much of a test) and looks perfectly clean afterward. If the Big Orange UFO that occasionally flys by shows up today I'll take her out for a bit of a ride.

[Rebel]

10% ethanol is not supposed to cause this kind of problem, you will notice a drop in gas mileage though. Now I say it is not supposed to cause the problem, but that does not mean it won't. It would be nice to be able to do a study using both fuels and see how it effects the plugs and the performance.

[harrywr2]

I'd like to try both fuels...but alas...it's all 10% ethanol. I had 2,500 miles on the Iridium and the entire insulator is completely black along with the tip.

From NGK
www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap.

Getting 75+MPG on a 250...so rich doesn't seem plausible. Got no vacuum hoses to leak and the manifold is metal. If I had compression I would be blowing oil and probably not be able to do 60 MPH up a 10% grade,oil level doesn't move. ECU controls spark timing. Plug gap is good.

Kinda leaves too cold a plug to achieve self cleaning temperature.

In any case...went off for a 20 mile ride...plug still looks new...was a bit of light tan dust on it.

[harrywr2]

The UFO/Sun came out yesterday...so I took a short spin(230 miles round trip) up to Paradise(elevation 5,400 ft) on Mt Rainier in order to escape the evil heat rays.

[xs650]

From way back in the thread...

I've got to work out the size of my shims at some point, there are different diameters. In a given diameter one can get a "Shop Set" of shims for somewhere between $50 and $100. This would include 3 of every possible thickness (100+ shims) or I can pay $5 plus shipping for 1 shim.

Harry, bucket and shim valve train is usually pretty stable. It's not unusual on a car or MC to go through a few maintenance cycles and find they are still in spec.

[harrywr2]

May 17, 2009 15:11:02 GMT -5 xs650 said:

Harry, bucket and shim valve train is usually pretty stable. It's not unusual on a car or MC to go through a few maintenance cycles and find they are still in spec.

The valves were out of spec .001 on the chain side at 1,000 miles. They were still out of spec .001 on the chain side at 2,400 miles.

I pretty much expect that when I do the 4,800 mile inspections they will be right where I left them.

EFI is an interesting invention...I actually gave some thought as to when I was stalling and it was at extended idle when I hit the 3rd bar on the temp gauge. Harley EFI goes into "Open Loop" when the engine temp rises above a certain level at idle. I.E. It ignores the O2 sensor.

At the moment it is semi-behaving. One stall in the last 1,500 miles. Not going to be an easy problem to track down. Could just be bad gas as one of the disadvantages of riding in the wilderness is that the 'last gas' is the 'last gas'...some of these places still have the mechanical pumps...kinda doubt they sell more then a few gallons of premium a day.

[harrywr2]

Managed to warp my right front disc rotor. Must have been on the way down off of Mt Rainier...lots of places where ice cold snow melt was running across the road on a long downhill run. $70 for a replacement...Ouch.

Ordered a new belt...will be hitting 5K miles soon...figured time to at least have a spare...$190...ouch...ouch.

[harrywr2]

Circumnavigated Mt Ranier Today. SR410 opened at noon. Unfortunately Stevens Canyon isn't open..so had to make a bit of a detour. 180 miles round Trip Enumclaw to Enumclaw...another 60 miles round trip from my house to Enumclaw.

Bike did fine...didn't have any problem holding 60+ MPH at 4,500+ feet.

[Rebel]

Doesn't that cannon get in the way on those long trips?

[harrywr2]

May 23, 2009 1:13:11 GMT -5 Rebel said:

Doesn't that cannon get in the way on those long trips?

LOL..I wish I had a cannon mounted...some dumb (insert appropriate adjective) tried to pass me in a hairpin turn.

I would have taken pictures of some of the drop offs but the only to see the bottom is the lean over the side.

[harrywr2]

May 23, 2009 20:32:06 GMT -5 JR said:

Now Now lets don't let it get out of hand!!

www.roadragers.com/

Not like I was riding around Arkansas with nuttin but a thong on or anything

[harrywr2]

Just finished my 5,000 mile inspection.

Valves gaps are right where I left them at 2,400 miles.
Belt wear is .4mm measured against a brand new one..and still 1.2mm above the service level.
The CR7EIX I tried out is holding a light tan.
Air filter is good...bu then I haven't been righting on any dirt roads lately.

[harrywr2]

Had a bit of an oops replacing my right front disk rotor. First 4 bolts came out a little on the hard side with my 3/8" impact wrench...5th didn't want to budge...so took out the 1/2" impact. Allen head socket rotated in the head of the nut like a hot knife thru butter.

Seems like the bolts are 'red loctited" in. Loctite says to heat them to 250 degrees before attempting removal. Ohh well. Live and learn.

Found a Suzuki part number 59421-03A01. Went to the Suzuki dealer part# has been superceded a couple of times. Tells me I'm not the first one to strip the head. In any case...the Suzuki dealer had to order the bolt. So I got a week to managed to get a bolt with a stripped head off.