philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Jul 21, 2011 14:07:10 GMT -5
OK, swapped the axles w/o any problems, mounted the brake shoes. Had a heck of a time with the brake shoes until I found a large rubber band, put the band around the shoes, put the shoes on the pegs and installed the springs. Then I got to wrestle the CVT cover back on. It's the gear shaft between the variator shaft and kick starter shaft.
Oh and the engine came with an NGK plug and Gates Powerlink belt. So far it seems like a really good buy.
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Post by kz1000st on Jul 21, 2011 20:04:48 GMT -5
You don't know it Phil, but you inspired me. I've had an oil leak for about a year now and I was living with it. I saw your story and said, "OK, Man UP and fix this thing." It turned out to be the head gasket leaking at the cam tunnel. I just finished installing the new gasket today ( after fluffing up the cam timing and doing it over) and the leak is gone.
I think I know what happened. When I was taking it apart the breather hose had blown off and out of curiosity I blew through it. It wasn't easy and it took alot of effort. I had a feeling so I left it off when I put it back together. This afternoon when I got the thing running the breather fitting on the valve cover was huffing and puffing pretty good. I'm wondering if pressure built up inside the engine and blew out the head gasket. I tried removing the hose when the oil leak started but it was probably too late. Today I pulled the hose off the gunk collector on the air box and pointed it towards the ground letting it breathe without restriction.
Time will tell if it keeps the next head gasket intact.
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philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Jul 21, 2011 20:18:09 GMT -5
We're even up then, it was reading posts by you and Kliff that got me started with Chinese scooters ;D
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noday
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"Sparky" Electronics Research and Development Officer
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Post by noday on Jul 22, 2011 15:20:20 GMT -5
way to go phil
to Kz1000 head gaskets usually blow because of heat. . . too much heat expands/stretches the head bolts so the head gasket is just a tiny bit loose. then normal pressures in the cylinder at firing blows by the gasket. head gaskets are metal because paper will leak.
also the cam chain channel sees pressure ups and downs as the piston moves. a lot of huffing and puffing usually means ring blow by.
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 23, 2011 18:44:36 GMT -5
Phil
I sent you a PM, just wondering how the new engine is working out
I am looking at the same, and just want a review from someone I can trust
Thanks
Doug
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philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Jul 23, 2011 20:22:29 GMT -5
Haven't got it installed yet. My "shop" is a concrete pad in front of the trailer. Heat index yesterday was 110, today 115. dyoung1167 on Scootdawg has one from T-motorsports, he could tell you more than I at this point. We discussed it a bit on this thread along with a possible explanation on the mismarked numbers. If I round up any definite info, I'll send it your way.
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philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Aug 4, 2011 14:55:49 GMT -5
Got the engine installed today. No problems aside from needing a 3rd hand. Everything hooked up OK. Tried to start it up. 1st problem - no gas. Checked everything from carb to tank and it's good. The tube in the tank is blocked, tried sucking some gas out, tried blowing thru hose - no go. Got the 2 gal gas can filled, hooked it to the pump and it worked, soon as gas hit the carb it started right up. 2nd problem - AC side electrics. Brake light, turn signals and horn work but no head light, tail light and probably autochoke. I believe the brake/tail light is LED (all I had for a roadside repair shortly before the engine died) so I need to change that out. The engine came with a R/R, coil, solenoid, CDI but I didn't change them out so it maybe a simple fix.... or NOT ;D Anyway, that's where I am now. Troubleshooting electrics , removing all the panels and I'm out of Dr Pepper
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noday
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"Sparky" Electronics Research and Development Officer
Posts: 90
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Post by noday on Aug 5, 2011 11:56:39 GMT -5
keep us posted phil.
I hope you are not working in the sun.
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philr54
Non-Com
fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Aug 9, 2011 16:21:13 GMT -5
OK, got some DP, took off ALL the panels, sat on my milk crate and cussed for awhile. Put in a new bulbs front and rear, started the engine and I have lights (and the autochoke is getting warm) ;D . Revved it up to 5 or 6k and pop, no lights . I know the R/R was working prior to the breakdown but wtf. Took the 4 pin R/R off, picked up the new 5 PIN R/R that came with the engine, sat down on my crate and cussed some more . Anyway I Google'd 5 pin regulator and found a post on similar problem over at the DAWG. His solution was to hook-up the 4 wires and skip the 5th and it works. Everything seems to be functioning . Now to clean out the gas tank and put it all back together. Apparently the seal on the fuel sender is leaking so I have a 10% ethanol, rainwater, raw steel cocktail in the tank. But the new engine install seems to be complete ;D .
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Post by Rebel on Aug 9, 2011 16:45:17 GMT -5
Hey, good going.
Got to love those crates to sit on, I do a lt of cussing from them too.
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noday
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"Sparky" Electronics Research and Development Officer
Posts: 90
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Post by noday on Aug 10, 2011 9:09:04 GMT -5
good going Phil
what color wire on the RR did you leave not connected ?
you can use 3 or 4 crates and a piece of plywood for a 12" lift table.
12" does not seem like much but it makes working on a scooter a lot easier on my back.
another help is an old rolling office chair with the back removed. that leaves an adjustable rolling stool. a lot easier on the rear end.
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philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Aug 10, 2011 14:57:29 GMT -5
Fifth wire is black, if my meter was working I'd check it for AC/DC voltage. It might be another source of power. I just took the 4 pin connector apart and plug the individual wires into the R/R.
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noday
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Post by noday on Aug 10, 2011 16:05:19 GMT -5
remember that black wire.
it is usually connected to the (-) pole of the battery to charge the battery, usually paired with red for a 12V DC circuit.
if you battery does not stay charged after the swap is complete, run a fused (7 to 10 amp) wire from that black wire to the negative battery pole.
it should read 12V when compared to the red, with red (+).
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philr54
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fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Aug 10, 2011 20:07:05 GMT -5
nodayThanks for the tip, I'll keep it in mind
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philr54
Non-Com
fuel system apprentice
Posts: 118
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Post by philr54 on Aug 14, 2011 16:05:05 GMT -5
OK, I ran an extra wire from the R/R and tied it off in case I need it as per nodays post. Also ran the wire for the tach so it's all neatly tied to the wiring harness. De-rusted(?) the gas tank with "the Works", ran new fuel/vacuum lines and replaced a couple of connectors. I'm not in a hurry so I can sit, look around and try to get everything right at one shot. I really hate taking all those panels off. Also got some whitewalls and new valve stems to install.
On the original engine: got my handy dandy 6 way flywheel puller from PFS so I started breaking down the cases. Lots of debris in the oil pan(?) and a little on the screen. Looks like the oil pump might have been the culprit. It doesn't turn freely and it looks a little rough in spots. Flushed it out and couldn't find any debris. I still have to get the starter gear off the shaft to remove the crankshaft. A new gear is like $3 so cutting it off might be the cheapest way to go
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