|
gearing
Jan 15, 2010 1:55:40 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 15, 2010 1:55:40 GMT -5
Hey guys and gals, I am converting my electric scooter to gas. I now have a 2 hp 4 stroke motor on it with a 11 tooth clutch. I have no clue what would be good gearing for it.There are a few hillly roads around here but they aren't to steep. My dirt bike is an 80cc 2 stroke and its gearing is about 3.5 to 1. Since i was thinking maybe 4 to 1 or 4.5 to 1.Do yall think this would be a good starting point.
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 16, 2010 22:41:42 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 16, 2010 22:41:42 GMT -5
does anybody have any idea what gearing i should start with. i have a 12" by 3" tire and i weigh 195lbs. the scooter weigh's about 50 lbs. any help would be appreciated
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 17, 2010 1:32:10 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 17, 2010 1:32:10 GMT -5
bump
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 17, 2010 9:08:06 GMT -5
Post by 90GTVert on Jan 17, 2010 9:08:06 GMT -5
Our motor scooters are often something like 8:1 to 12:1 final drive ratios behind the CVT. If your clutch has teeth, I'd assume it has no CVT. I'm not used to clutches having teeth. Do you mean the front (engine) sprocket is an 11 tooth? More info would be helpful for us.
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 18, 2010 3:19:56 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 18, 2010 3:19:56 GMT -5
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 18, 2010 8:44:00 GMT -5
Post by 90GTVert on Jan 18, 2010 8:44:00 GMT -5
Well if there is no CVT on it, you are probably closer with your initial estimates than what a CVT driven scoot would want for a final drive ratio. I used to mess with 2-3HP 2 strokes on midbikes and I liked using 4.29 (14/60) gearing on them for parking lots and messing around. That would get me mid 20MPH but I could do wheelies even with the lack of HP/TQ from the little engine. I had a 3.14 (14/44) setup that would get me into the low 30s but much less takeoff power. 2HP just isn't a lot to work with. How steep the gearing is should depend on what you want out of it. Also remember that my figures are off because I had 6" wheels and you have 12" wheels. I have a couple of calculators on my page that might help you out. One will give you tire circumference from it's specs. Another will tell you max MPH from gear ratio, tire circumference, and RPM. www.49ccscoot.com/calculators.html
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 19, 2010 2:54:10 GMT -5
Post by Rebel on Jan 19, 2010 2:54:10 GMT -5
My suggestion is to check out he tooth count on a go cart or a mini bike and use that. I think you'll be going to a much lower gear ratio than 4:1. As I recall from when I fixed up a mini bike for the kids the rear gear was nearly the size of the rim, I don't know how many teeth the front had but it was not very big.
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 19, 2010 12:51:12 GMT -5
Post by Rebel on Jan 19, 2010 12:51:12 GMT -5
Ok, I did a little looking, 60 tooth rear sprocket seems to be a standard for some mini bikes with 6 inch rear wheel, now you are using a larger wheel so you might need a larger rear sprocket.
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 19, 2010 15:20:22 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 19, 2010 15:20:22 GMT -5
thanks everyone for the responces. I really appreciate it. 2 hp is not a whole lot to work with but it's about the only thing that would fit since i want to use a 4 stroke. I think i will try a 60 tooth sproket and go from there. Thanks for the help everybody
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 19, 2010 15:42:22 GMT -5
Post by Rebel on Jan 19, 2010 15:42:22 GMT -5
well, 4 stroke has its plusses, 2 stroke has its power, ever consider a chain saw motor??
What ever you to it is up to you, keep us up to date and even post some picutres of the project we like that here.
Doug
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 19, 2010 21:19:14 GMT -5
Post by odie2ooo on Jan 19, 2010 21:19:14 GMT -5
I thought about using a chain saw motor but have no idea if the little "clutch" would hold up or how i could change it up to use a chain type set up. I am not able to push the scooter at all to help out the clutch. I may look at the chain saw motor to see what kind of set up I can run. I will definitely post pictures but it will be a while. Gonna get all the kinks out first then take the motor back off and paint it
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 20, 2010 7:46:53 GMT -5
Post by Rocketdog on Jan 20, 2010 7:46:53 GMT -5
I have no hard numbers on the chain saw swap. But if it will cut through a tree without slipping, I bet the clutch will hold up to scooter duty. One way to find out.
RD
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 20, 2010 12:37:17 GMT -5
Post by Rebel on Jan 20, 2010 12:37:17 GMT -5
I have no hard numbers on the chain saw swap. But if it will cut through a tree without slipping, I bet the clutch will hold up to scooter duty. One way to find out. RD Kind of the same thing I was thinking. Finding a chain to fit the clutch is the possible problem, unless it would come apart and you can change it out.
|
|
xs650
Non-Com
Lance Corporal, 3rd Mixed Mechanized Close Combat Forces
Posts: 133
|
gearing
Jan 20, 2010 20:57:15 GMT -5
Post by xs650 on Jan 20, 2010 20:57:15 GMT -5
I have no hard numbers on the chain saw swap. But if it will cut through a tree without slipping, I bet the clutch will hold up to scooter duty. One way to find out. RD Difference is, a scooter clutch gets engaged under load every time and a chainsaw clutch almost always gets intially engaged with no load on it. Chainsaw clutches aren't designed to survive slipping under heavy load like a scooter clutch is.
|
|
|
gearing
Jan 31, 2010 15:26:32 GMT -5
Post by Rocketdog on Jan 31, 2010 15:26:32 GMT -5
I have no hard numbers on the chain saw swap. But if it will cut through a tree without slipping, I bet the clutch will hold up to scooter duty. One way to find out. RD Difference is, a scooter clutch gets engaged under load every time and a chainsaw clutch almost always gets intially engaged with no load on it. Chainsaw clutches aren't designed to survive slipping under heavy load like a scooter clutch is. Your probably right XS. After all every chainsaw clutch I've seen has a steel face and no shoes. Might work on a razor. RD
|
|