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Post by theswede on Jan 6, 2010 14:48:39 GMT -5
Hi,
Those of you that have junked the vacuum petcock and installed a manual fuel valve instead, where did you get yours? I don't have any luck finding anything suitable for my scoot online...
/Otto
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Post by Enviromoto on Jan 6, 2010 15:08:56 GMT -5
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Post by theswede on Jan 6, 2010 15:29:43 GMT -5
Yes, I have seen those but they seem hard to fix properly? From the pictures of them I have found there doesn't seem to be any mounting holes to screw it down... Seems to me that valve is for hanging free on the fuel line? I would like to find something that fits thru a hole I drill in the bodywork...
/Otto
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Post by Rocketdog on Jan 9, 2010 17:56:04 GMT -5
I think they do make one that has a nut on it. But I just used a regular one like Enviro has there. I mounted it inside the body panel with two 3/8 brackets. No need for hose clamps. RD
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Post by Enviromoto on Jan 9, 2010 23:21:43 GMT -5
Nice work RD.
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Post by theswede on Jan 10, 2010 8:02:56 GMT -5
That's a very good idea RD, I'll look into if I can manage something similar on my scoot.
Thanks!
Otto
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shiftless
Non-Com
SFC Indy, IN, 2nd DIV, So. Symperthisers
Twist n Go !
Posts: 177
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Post by shiftless on Jan 10, 2010 13:05:17 GMT -5
Heres one I got from local auto parts store 1/4 " shutoff The 1 from enviro is much better quality
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Post by Rebel on Jan 10, 2010 13:28:23 GMT -5
JB Weld would probaby secure a tab pretty well on one of those so you could attach it someplace.
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Post by Rocketdog on Jan 12, 2010 19:23:51 GMT -5
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Post by Rebel on Jan 13, 2010 2:53:21 GMT -5
That should do it if he can reach the bottom of his tank and if it fits his outflow nipple on the tank.
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Post by Rocketdog on Jan 13, 2010 8:56:00 GMT -5
I bought one just to see. They are marketing it for a 150-250cc dune buggy, but I bet it's the same size. As far as reaching it goes, I have an idea about that. Use a shot piece of steel rod. Just long enough to reach from the valve to the other side of the body. Cut a slot in one end of it and pin it to the valve. Drill an appropriate size hole in the body and attach some sort of a handle to it. Wait till I get mine and I'll work on one.
RD
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Post by Rebel on Jan 13, 2010 12:07:16 GMT -5
RD, sounds like you went to a school of engineering.
I have a good mental picture of what you are suggesting and it sounds like it will work as long as there are not obstacles. You might want to add some support to run it through at the outside handle end for supporting the weight of it, beyond the plastic body. The plastic would hold though for at least a while.
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Post by Rocketdog on Jan 13, 2010 20:56:58 GMT -5
Hillbilly engineering hehehe. The frames not in the way on mine and I bet others that use my model of scooter. www.mrscooters.com/images/view.aspx?productId=32 I found a nice articulating clevis for the fuel valve side. www.midwestcontrol.com/catdisplay_short.php?pg=541 And a grommet for the body panel. You might have to use a joint and a two piece rod. But I bet there could be some of an angle. Small U joints are pricey. I would make a drawing of it but my copier, printer, fax is set up on a network and I can't copy to my computer. RD
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Post by theswede on Jan 14, 2010 5:22:13 GMT -5
Thanks RD, but unfortunately that type of petcock will not work on my scoot. My fuel line attaches to a welded piece of pipe that comes out of the fuel tank. Nothing to remove and replace with a manual alternative such as the one you linked. And it would require some type of extension too, there is no way I can reach the tank when the body panels are attached. I will go for a solution similar to the one your first picture shows. Already ordered the valve, but we got some serious winter here now so all scooter projects are sort of on hold right now. I'll post a picture when I have it working.
Cheers,
Otto
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Post by Rocketdog on Jan 15, 2010 21:14:02 GMT -5
Yup it fits. And it has a reserve, so who cares if the unreliable fuel gauge works. Now to carry out the rest of my plan. RD
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