Post by kliff on Jul 1, 2009 7:05:03 GMT -5
Nothing perfect, nothing set in stone, just sorta a guideline I settled on, that works for me...
WHY, another PDI guideline? One of the best there was, by :Big Guy," has sorta bee abbreviated of late. Wheter to maintain a level playing feild for those expensive FLY's, or just re-writing, who knows. But the meat of the subject is gone. So I jotted down some of the things I do, to check out, help with that first start up, and really "TUNE" a carb to your engine, not just generically set it....
Here goes, hope it helps...
While it ain't the same, and no pics, just remember these key points.
The plastic body panels can be fiddly, and sometimes the clips break... I only remove what I need, when I need, gaining knowledge and experience with each panel.
Check ALL nuts and bolts
Check ALL electical connections, be sure pins are straight, apply dielectric grease inside the connection, "glue" the connection together with a small dab of clear GE Silicone, on the outside of the mated connector bodies.
Search for, and paint any and all rusted areas with Rustoleum paint
Prime the fuel system, turkey basters work well, and it only takes a few cc's of gas.Disconnect the filter from the fuel line, and slowly inject fuel to fill the filter, and the fuel line down into the carb.
You can also open the carb drain at this point, and flush some extra gas through the carb....never hurts. close the carb drain, hook up the fuel line ...done.
Turn the idle screw, the one on the right side of the carb, with the throttle cable, IN, about 1 turn. BE SURE the rear tire is in the air, bike on the centerstand, first time you start, this may be a FAST setting, and it may need to be backed off quickly, but it usually makes starting a new scoot easier. BE CAREFUL!
I also choose this time to adjust the valves, .004" intake, .006"exhaust.
Locate the idle mixture screw... left side of the bike, near the intake manifold, kinda low on the carb body...PRELIMINARY start setting, 2.25 turns out from lightly seated...NOT screwed down tight and hard,,,just turn it in till it stops...then back it out, 2.25 turns
Insure all fuel & Vacuum lines are connected, and have their clamps in place.
After doing all this....check the oil level....get used to it, it should be your morning ritual, before starting EVERY day...check the oil.
Now fire that jewel up. let it run about 10 minutes on the stand, you may need to adjust the idle speed, to a point just less than enough to rotate the rear tire.
Vary the speed, no banzai blips on the throttle, but some gentle up and down speed changes are welcome.
Be looking for oil leaks,,,you had the valve cover off, remember?
Now, as you near the 10 minute time, your engine should be warm. Locate the idle mixture screw,.
WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, and at TEMP, let's set the pilot mix screw. turn it in, until the engine stumbles, rpms drop, any sign of change and stop! Now, counting the turns, screw it out, until the same scenario presents itself, STOP! Divide that number of turns by 2, and screw the needle back in by that amount. That carb, is adjusted to THAT engine. Not just a number of turns someone on the net TOLD you to put it on....YOU just TUNED your carb, to your engine.
Shut it down, change the oil and the gear box oil, fire that bugger up, and go for a ride. Keep a close eye on stuff for a few days, do another change at 100, 500, and 1000 miles, with another valve adjustment at 1K, and have fun.
A simple PDI like that, levels the field, almost every time, between a $1000.00 scooter, and a $2000.00 scooter. Go save some bucks, get your hands dirty, and ride. It's all good, I'm just inherently cheap.
Your "drop shipped" scooter, just joined the ranks of the expensive, "dealer prepped" and shipped scoots, 'cept you saved money, and learned something about the workings of your scoot, all at the same time. Enjoy!
Thanks kz1000st, for the edit and clean-up ;D
WHY, another PDI guideline? One of the best there was, by :Big Guy," has sorta bee abbreviated of late. Wheter to maintain a level playing feild for those expensive FLY's, or just re-writing, who knows. But the meat of the subject is gone. So I jotted down some of the things I do, to check out, help with that first start up, and really "TUNE" a carb to your engine, not just generically set it....
Here goes, hope it helps...
While it ain't the same, and no pics, just remember these key points.
The plastic body panels can be fiddly, and sometimes the clips break... I only remove what I need, when I need, gaining knowledge and experience with each panel.
Check ALL nuts and bolts
Check ALL electical connections, be sure pins are straight, apply dielectric grease inside the connection, "glue" the connection together with a small dab of clear GE Silicone, on the outside of the mated connector bodies.
Search for, and paint any and all rusted areas with Rustoleum paint
Prime the fuel system, turkey basters work well, and it only takes a few cc's of gas.Disconnect the filter from the fuel line, and slowly inject fuel to fill the filter, and the fuel line down into the carb.
You can also open the carb drain at this point, and flush some extra gas through the carb....never hurts. close the carb drain, hook up the fuel line ...done.
Turn the idle screw, the one on the right side of the carb, with the throttle cable, IN, about 1 turn. BE SURE the rear tire is in the air, bike on the centerstand, first time you start, this may be a FAST setting, and it may need to be backed off quickly, but it usually makes starting a new scoot easier. BE CAREFUL!
I also choose this time to adjust the valves, .004" intake, .006"exhaust.
Locate the idle mixture screw... left side of the bike, near the intake manifold, kinda low on the carb body...PRELIMINARY start setting, 2.25 turns out from lightly seated...NOT screwed down tight and hard,,,just turn it in till it stops...then back it out, 2.25 turns
Insure all fuel & Vacuum lines are connected, and have their clamps in place.
After doing all this....check the oil level....get used to it, it should be your morning ritual, before starting EVERY day...check the oil.
Now fire that jewel up. let it run about 10 minutes on the stand, you may need to adjust the idle speed, to a point just less than enough to rotate the rear tire.
Vary the speed, no banzai blips on the throttle, but some gentle up and down speed changes are welcome.
Be looking for oil leaks,,,you had the valve cover off, remember?
Now, as you near the 10 minute time, your engine should be warm. Locate the idle mixture screw,.
WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, and at TEMP, let's set the pilot mix screw. turn it in, until the engine stumbles, rpms drop, any sign of change and stop! Now, counting the turns, screw it out, until the same scenario presents itself, STOP! Divide that number of turns by 2, and screw the needle back in by that amount. That carb, is adjusted to THAT engine. Not just a number of turns someone on the net TOLD you to put it on....YOU just TUNED your carb, to your engine.
Shut it down, change the oil and the gear box oil, fire that bugger up, and go for a ride. Keep a close eye on stuff for a few days, do another change at 100, 500, and 1000 miles, with another valve adjustment at 1K, and have fun.
A simple PDI like that, levels the field, almost every time, between a $1000.00 scooter, and a $2000.00 scooter. Go save some bucks, get your hands dirty, and ride. It's all good, I'm just inherently cheap.
Your "drop shipped" scooter, just joined the ranks of the expensive, "dealer prepped" and shipped scoots, 'cept you saved money, and learned something about the workings of your scoot, all at the same time. Enjoy!
Thanks kz1000st, for the edit and clean-up ;D
CAN YOU HELP ME OUT MAN,AS i LOST ME JOB DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO GET THERE?ANY INF