150 gy6 ... at a loss HELP

[kilrdrgn]

ok so I have looked all over and found and tried almost every suggested solution but still no luck.

I have a 150 gy6 that had been sitting about a year under a tarp. ran good when parked.

I have drained the tank and put new gas in, cleaned the carb, plug, fuel lines, adjusted the valves and tried playing with the a/f mixture. I is (as far as I know ) it is completely stock.

The problem is it will start and run great up till about 1/3 throttle then bogs down when going further. please help or if anyone is in my area and feels like donating time to help fix as I am on a verry limited budget.

Thanks in advance

[kilrdrgn]

also it has 6k miles.

[Rebel]

Welcome

Did you check the diaphragm in the carb for holes? Is the auto choke working? it should open up after a few minutes.

When you cleaned the carb, you took it all apart and made sure the jets were clear of varnish, blew out all the passages? What about the adjusting screws how far did you back them out to start with. Did you check or replace the fuel filter?

[kilrdrgn]

May 2, 2013 9:52:27 GMT -5 Rebel said:

Welcome

Did you check the diaphragm in the carb for holes? Is the auto choke working? it should open up after a few minutes.

not shre how to check this but it bogs if have choke pluged in or not.

When you cleaned the carb, you took it all apart and made sure the jets were clear of varnish, blew out all the passages? What about the adjusting screws how far did you back them out to start with. Did you check or replace the fuel filter?

as for the varnish not sure how to get it off if its there. I did adjust the screw in all the way the back out 1-3 tures trying to get it to smooth out.

[kilrdrgn]

also the fuel filter is clear

[Rebel]

When you clean the carb the jets need to be unscrewed you can look through them and see if it is clear of gunk. If not soaking in a carb cleaner should help you can run a piece of monofilament fishing line through it and if varnish has been softened it can push it on out. Refrain from putting a wire through it because the brass can get messed up.

The diaphragm you just have to examine for holes or rips.

The auto choke/enricher is powered by electricity you can take it off the carb and run some power (12 volts) to it an see if the plunger moves.

[Rebel]

A/f screw start with screwing it in until it touches and then back out two turns.

[kilrdrgn]

May 2, 2013 14:28:52 GMT -5 Rebel said:

A/f screw start with screwing it in until it touches and then back out two turns.

I have tried this also.

Will tear down the carb next semi dry day we get. 50-70% rain till Sunday.
will soak everything real good and try cleaning again.

As for the diaphragm I have checked it but didn't seen any holes or tears.

the valves i used the coke can feeler gauge i saw someone mention on here ( didn't have .004 gauge.)

When you cleaned the carb, you took it all apart and made sure the jets were clear of varnish, blew out all the passages?

I did remove the jets and the parts with all the tiny holes, soaked them in gas and blew them out.
 

just wondering if i wanted to completely block the auto choke port is this possible and how would i do it?
(just to eliminate it temp)

[Rebel]

Well i have never heard of anybody blocking the choke hole off.

Jmkjr hopefully will be in and offer some more points of view.

[jmkjr72]

Sorry busy with scout camp and back to work
Never heard of it being done
i wouldnt kniw how to go about it
Normaly the pin extends and blocks off the fuel flow
We actually run enrichers not chokes

[jmkjr72]

[jmkjr72]

I would pull the exhaust and see if its plugged
Its a four stroke try and run it real quick with no pipe

[chowdahboy]

I had the same problem.so I replaced the carb.it rums fine now.stock carb for $29 on amazon and free shipping.if you haven't fixed it yet I hope this helps

[Rebel]

You often times get the added benefit of not having the adjusting screws not being capped off with an aftermarket carb as well.