Oil Report....dissappointed, no mo' RP fo me...

[kliff]

Just an ole shadetree mechanic, that as the years have progressed have become quite dissallusioned with facyory propoganda on oil performance, and as for most net resources, in the past 10 years or so....when I see Lawyers posing themselves as psuedo knowledgeable amateur chemist.....that ain't happennning either, not with me.

So I experiment. I listen,watch, record oil usage, and even LOOK at apparent viscosity, or lack there of, at drain time. Certainly nothing scientific, probably as primitive as the Flintstones.

So, all that having been said, I ventured toward the GY6 engines with Royal Purple. I'd used their products in an industrial background, and had reasonable, though not blinding over performance.

As of today, all my GY6's(including Ross's) will be on catrol GTX 15/40 diesel oil, with 10% Lucas oil stabilizer. I have used this cocoction in Urals with GREAT success, and being as the oiling system is so similar, I'm using it now in the GY6's.

Why? Water like viscosity at drain time, when it should mimic a 40wt viscosity. It actually appears thinner than when checked before start up. Somehow this doesn't seem right to me.

Also, usage. The silver scoot, will deliverring a 175PSI compression test, and les than 5% leak down(those rings are seated!), continues to consume oil. The spark plug looks perfect. The temps are vaporizing the oil....it is going out the breather. And the hotter the temps have gotten 98F w/95%hum yesterday, the more drastic it is becoming. Like 4oz every 100 miles. TOO much for me.

Until I decide to experiment again, I'll use my Castro/Lucas Witches Brew. It has served me well in the past, I can only hope for the same now.

Don't get me wrong, I love synthetics....but this Brew is like ole reliable, I know what it will do in an air cooled engine...till I decide to start sperimenting again...

[90GTVert]

I've stuck wth Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil, oil for wet clutches, gear oil, 2T oil (until they quit making it), and even their grease. No problems that I can see with it. I don't know much about oil, but I know I have better looking internals when I pull 'em apart after using Mobil 1 from the standard Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol. I also change my oil every 3,000 miles in a car, even though people say it's a waste with full syn. I change gear oil and engine oil in scoots and little bikes more than is probably necessary as well.

Even though I liked Mobil 1 2T, I must say I'm glad to have found AMSOil's 100:1. I mix it 50:1 while everyone else sticks with 32-40:1 on most other oils and so far so good. I did try it at around 80:1 at first, that didn't work out so well.

Here's one for the conventional lovers... I put a 1,000HP capable C4 transmission in my Mustang a little while ago. I was ready to go out an buy the finest trans oil I could buy, then I asked the company that sells the transmission and they told me to use a conventional trans fluid from a major refinery. Warranty would not be honored if synthetic was used. Granted, it's a transmission and not an engine so they work in different ways.

[Rebel]

The oil debate will never end, I find if you just change the oil, most will do their job, I have never tried the synthetics though. Seemed like a good thing for everybody else to test out first in my opinion.

[mrsg]

Well wish i knew royal flop was not liked. From most debate they all say to use royal purple. So for my first synthetic bought it and going to try it next.

[wcurtin1962]

I’m using regular Castrol 10W-40. I have been using Castrol in all of my motors since I tried it in my old U-haul. It had a Ford 2300 4 cyl with 320,000 on it. The oil pressure would wary at 70 psi on a cold morning to dropping to 30 psi on a hot afternoon, with Pennzoil. After I put Castrol in it the pressure stayed at 40 psi no matter how hot or cold it would get. That sold me! I will get a gallon of the diesel Castrol next oil change.