manikmodder
Cadet
mod it till u love it then make it faster
Posts: 7
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Post by manikmodder on Sept 16, 2012 16:55:53 GMT -5
bought a used vip from my brother good price 2 or so i thought, am am 2 payments in at 50 bucks a week, and now it wont frickin start.. well the scooter seemed to run fine for the first 2 weeks i had it i have no clue how many miloes are on the scoot it did not come with a speedo cable lol, last week i went to see a friend about 12 miles away, came home no issues, i parked and chilled for a bit then a friend came over and we went to store it had a little trouble starting but it did start, after store we came home about an hour later a geve her a ride home about a mile, it started fine but died on me when i came to a stop at the sign, then it had trouble starting again, when i got back i parked the bike and let it idle while i went in house to unlock my bedroom and bring her in for the night when i got back to the bike it was still idling, i drove it into my room and shut her down, nexxt morning i went to start her up for work but she said no, so far i changed cdi, sparkplug, rebuilt carb, cleaned the filter, and still no go, i checked spark it has good spark it gets fuel plug was wet, i dont have a compression guage but what i have read says compression should be about 213 psi. which should blow my finger right off the head, it does not i feel a little pressure that is it please help
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Post by Rebel on Sept 17, 2012 0:59:31 GMT -5
Check you valve gap. These need their valves checked pretty frequently. I think the compression shouldbe over 135.
If the plug is getting wet does it smell like gas or oil.
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manikmodder
Cadet
mod it till u love it then make it faster
Posts: 7
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Post by manikmodder on Sept 18, 2012 1:29:17 GMT -5
it is defenetely gas, and it got wet after i removed the air box and chocket out the carb with my hand when i did this it tried to start but it still did not, is it true that if rings go there will b gas in my oil, i pulled the dipstick oil looks really thin and black but does not smell like gas, taking the carb to scrappydogscooters in the morning hopefully i can get good tech info there, had a harley tech say it was head gasket so i am going to buy that, cheapest part to replace and once i get head off i have to replacve anyway so i figure i will atleast b able to see what is going on
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manikmodder
Cadet
mod it till u love it then make it faster
Posts: 7
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Post by manikmodder on Sept 22, 2012 2:16:40 GMT -5
ok compression check revealed a big fat 0 lol, i have torn down the bike fixing to purchase a big bore kit complete 80cc upgrade, it has all gaskets, new head with valves installed, everything to replace top end, i have a serious question though, i am sure i have the 64mm valves becouse they arent any higher than the head, my question is if i am replacing the entire top end what does it matter if i go with 64mm valves or 69mm valves, and 80 cc vs 100 cc, it seems to me we can only ream thes cylinders out so much, and the bigger piston vs thinner cooling surface of the cylinder wall, should i stick with my idea of the 80 cc or go with the 100 cc or is 3 mm really going to make that much issue with heat thanks i will post pics soon
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Post by Rebel on Sept 22, 2012 3:13:39 GMT -5
Most of the "80 cc" big bore kits are really a 72cc kit. I would go with the 72cc one. If the kit comes with a head, use it. Going bigger makes it more likely that you will need to bore out the case opening and if you do that you really should split the case open and clean out all the metal filings to reduce the chance of bearing failure due to those filings getting in them.
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manikmodder
Cadet
mod it till u love it then make it faster
Posts: 7
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Post by manikmodder on Sept 27, 2012 20:59:48 GMT -5
thanks for the help turned out it was the exaust valve and is now resurected with a complete 47mm top end kit, 72cc i believe, starting my break in now starts and idles beautifully, not too sure carb is correct now though any suggestions and roller weights should i go a gram heavier now with this kit
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Post by panheadrich on Jan 14, 2013 22:23:48 GMT -5
Hey, can you guys tell me where to get the big bore kits for this scoot?
Thanks
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Post by Rebel on Jan 18, 2013 1:02:17 GMT -5
Sorry, i have not ment to ignore you. you can get the big bore lits from any of the suppliers that have ads here or you can go to ebay for then.
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Post by panheadrich on Feb 9, 2013 2:06:34 GMT -5
Sorry, i have not ment to ignore you. you can get the big bore lits from any of the suppliers that have ads here or you can go to ebay for then. No problem, thanks for your help. I'm just trying to help my brother with upgrading his VIP. He'll probably join this forum real soon. Thanks again, Rich
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Post by gy6forlife on Feb 10, 2013 15:58:34 GMT -5
Most of the "80 cc" big bore kits are really a 72cc kit. I would go with the 72cc one. If the kit comes with a head, use it. Going bigger makes it more likely that you will need to bore out the case opening and if you do that you really should split the case open and clean out all the metal filings to reduce the chance of bearing failure due to those filings getting in them. I just bought one of the SD. Big Bore kits and the KOSO variator,with the DR. D sliders,and a set of yellow rear springs for both the big and three smaller ones at 1500rpm yellow in color,and a #85 jet,and 35 jet,with all new rubber valves for the carb,and cleaned the carb out,I am getting a bog at 7-9000rpms now?it has and will run past 12K rpms!Before I changed all this with over 10K miles on the scooter.I have a "Blue racing ignition ziptied under the seat but the stock on I have seems to work much better than the supposed better one.I also have what is to be a performance coil and wire,that is orange,the spark travel doesnt seem to do any better than the original.How does the round black carb valve move off of vacuum?as there is no mechanical connection to it?I just did get it fired up today for the first time,as my pulley drive side cover broke out the portion from having to kickstart it most of the time,now I have new 7amp battery and use a battery charger while in the garage to start it up,do you or anyone know what may be causing the stumble at 7-9K ,but it will rev way past that almost to the point if I wanted to blow it up?Stuck at 7K rpm range?I did install a #85,and #35 jets in carb as I have a aftermarket air cleaner?Stumped in Indy.. gy6for life lol
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Post by gy6forlife on Feb 12, 2013 16:17:24 GMT -5
THE CARB STUMBLE HAS CLEARED UP NOW,AND IT WILL NOT GO OVER 10MPH,NOW VERSES THE FACTORY SPRINGS IT WENT 45MPH ALL DAY LONG!!!! i HAVE INSTALLED ALL THE PERFORMACE PARTS FROM SD. COMPANY,AND THEY ARE GREAT WITH TRING TO HELP,BUT TO NO AVAIL?i AM GOINGTO PUT ALL THE STOCK SPRINGS BACK IN AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS>? AS IF IT DOES i WILL BE RETURNING ALL THE PARTS THAT DO NOT WORK ON MY OL YELLER?i HAVE NO CHOICE,AS IT ONLY GOES 12MPH,NOW WHERE AS BEFORE IT WENT 45MPH WITH JUST BACK YARD MODS,SO IF THIS FACTORY REAR CLUTCH DOES NOT WORK,i AM AT LOSS FOR WHY,I BOUGHT IT ALL FOLKS?SLIDERS,YELLOW 4 SPRING SETUP,TOTAL REBUILD CARB,NEW TIRE,BATTERY,AND BELT?SO WHAT GIVES?PLEASE TRY TO HELP ME FOLKS,? kIND rEGARDS, JASON SPIDEL
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Post by Rebel on Feb 13, 2013 23:50:03 GMT -5
Sometimes the problem is doing everything at one time, when you make a lot of changes it makes it harder to figure out what is the one giving you problems. "How does the round black carb valve move off of vacuum" Can you post a photo As I understand, it will rev up to a high RPM but just won't move very fast, your clutch is gripping well?
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Post by craisin on May 31, 2013 3:29:42 GMT -5
I put a Suzuki Racing clutch on my 50cc gt6 Sym. Had to put on the old springs off the standard clutch
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Post by Rebel on May 31, 2013 4:33:06 GMT -5
I put a Suzuki Racing clutch on my 50cc gt6 Sym. Had to put on the old springs off the standard clutch did the clutch make it perform better?
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