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Post by Rebel on May 24, 2011 12:46:37 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. I'm not a 2 stroke expert but I'll give you some things to check and hopefully one of the 2 stroke guys will come along soon.
When it "sputtered and stalled" did you have any lights going and they died at the same time?
You said you were working on it and then after I'm guessing a lot of times trying to start it the starter started to just click, this is a sign of a drained battery, the clicking.
When you were checking for spark did you have the plug laying on the motor? It needs to be touching the motor so it will ground and complete the circuit.
How old is the battery? If it is the original it is probably not going to hold up for much cranking, four or five years is a very long time to use one battery.
For it to run you need three things.
Spark
Fuel
Compression
You seem to know how to check the spark so you need to figure out if it is getting spark and if it is not then check out the ignition system.
you already worked on the fuel system by cleaning the carb, but also see if the filter is not plugged
You can see if it has some compression by having the plug out and putting a finger on the hole while cranking the motor with either the kick start or starter motor. You should feel a strong push of air, see if it will push the finger off against resistance.
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on May 24, 2011 17:10:29 GMT -5
first question do you know how old the battery is second is how many amps is the charger you put it on over night anything more then 1am will cook a small battery when it comes to 2 strokes the first thing to do is replace the spark plug and clean the air filter cleaning them does no good i personaly like to use one of these for checking for spark www.harborfreight.com/inline-ignition-spark-checker-4424.htmla bit of advice if you are looking at compresion gauges do not get the one from harbor freight pony up the cash and buy a good one from sears to eliminate fuel delivery issues i like to use a quick shot of starting fluid with the air box off it it runs then you have a fuel delivery issue if not then its spark or compresion another no start issue to check on a 2 stroke is that the reeds are intact
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Post by Rebel on May 25, 2011 11:04:02 GMT -5
a little info on the reeds for you;
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Post by Rebel on May 25, 2011 12:33:52 GMT -5
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Post by Rebel on May 25, 2011 15:26:17 GMT -5
Sounds like a plan to me, a 4 yr old battery is not going to be great and it might be the cause. If your new battery and spark plug do not do it, I think it would be a good idea to check the reed valve assembly, they do break up and when they are gone it won't run.
Car Quest may have a decent battery, I just do not know, it has been a long time since I bought anything from them.
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on May 25, 2011 19:16:25 GMT -5
next time ask before buying at a parts store normaly those batteries are realy over priced i dont know what you are paying for it but you will proably have to add the acid and charge it your self and yeah without knowing what brand of battery they ordered its hard to say the quailty some of the auto parts stores around here sell complete crap for motorsports batteries and have you comeing back every year www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTX7L-BS.htmland i have bought from this vender they ship fast and scoripion batteries come ready to use and tend to have more cca than the oem batteries
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Post by Rebel on May 28, 2011 0:42:13 GMT -5
You can jump the battery just like you would a car battery, if you have another vehicle you can hook it up to. Some battery chargers have a jump mode but not a trickle charger.
If you can post photos of what you are having a hard time identifying, somebody here might recognize it.
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on May 28, 2011 10:40:01 GMT -5
sounds like you have an alarm on that scoot i wish i had a wire diagram for it as those alarms tend to drain the battery i dont know what wires to cut to disable it and still be able to start the scoot
motorsports batteries normaly last 2 to 3 years 4 years is a good long life
if you try to jump start it from a car do not have the car running cars ele systems tend to spike a bit more then scooter systems and you can fry stuff
if you have contiunity between the negative terminal and the frame your ground is good
if you do not have conitnuity on the positive i would like to know where you are testing from the terminal to where and that would indicate your porblem is between those 2 points (did you check the fuse normaly right by the battery)
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Post by son10s on May 30, 2011 8:59:34 GMT -5
sounds like you have an alarm on that scoot i wish i had a wire diagram for it as those alarms tend to drain the battery i dont know what wires to cut to disable it and still be able to start the scoot motorsports batteries normaly last 2 to 3 years 4 years is a good long life if you try to jump start it from a car do not have the car running cars ele systems tend to spike a bit more then scooter systems and you can fry stuff if you have contiunity between the negative terminal and the frame your ground is good if you do not have conitnuity on the positive i would like to know where you are testing from the terminal to where and that would indicate your porblem is between those 2 points (did you check the fuse normaly right by the battery) ok, i tried my test light on a ground bolt instead of just a piece of the frame and now it lights up. ordered a new spark plug which will be in today. wish me luck!
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Post by Rebel on May 30, 2011 14:33:10 GMT -5
The frame should give you continuity, unless you were testing on top of the paint, you need to touch bare metal, might be why the bolt worked for you instead of the frame. Don't want to over emphasize, but four years on a scooter battery is way past when most people have to replace them. If that is also the original spark plug, good move ordering a new one.
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Post by son10s on Jun 7, 2011 8:53:35 GMT -5
The frame should give you continuity, unless you were testing on top of the paint, you need to touch bare metal, might be why the bolt worked for you instead of the frame. Don't want to over emphasize, but four years on a scooter battery is way past when most people have to replace them. If that is also the original spark plug, good move ordering a new one. Took the battery to Advance and they did a load test. VOLTAGE: 12.67 MEASURED: 213 CCA RATED: YTX7L-BS TEMPERATURE: 73F Went back to checking connections I can get to and realized I needed to remove the bell housing from the stator to get to the starter. Once I got the fan off, I saw threads of fabric all over coming from under the bell housing so I gently pulled one and out came what looks like the insulating sleeve which is white in the enclosed picture but this one is black. I gently lifted about an inch of this that is obviously split and tangled inside. Could this be the source of my no-power-start-button-just-clicks problem? What can I use to replace the sleeve besides another sleeve? So I need to get the housing off, not only to see what is in the stator, but also because I cannot get to the starter otherwise. I have been told about sites to order a flywheel puller but I have little funds and since I may end up spending them on a new stator and/or starter, isn't there another option to get in there without special tools? And do I need to drain my oil if I don't take off the stator plate? Also, I cannot seem to get the foot panel off to see what I am doing better. Is there a trick to this? The starter looks filthy from what I see and the connections may be bad. Borrowed a multimeter but I must not understand multimeterese because most references don't really help me understand what goes where and what setting it should be on. Any suggestions? Attachments:
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Post by Rebel on Jun 7, 2011 11:44:08 GMT -5
You should not need to drain the oil to get to the stator. with the fabric you discovered I'm suspecting some messed up wiring. you should just go ahead and take it apart and survey the damage.
Yes this very well may be the source of all your problems.
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Post by Rebel on Jun 9, 2011 17:35:47 GMT -5
you might get some good info from this manual manual
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Post by son10s on Jun 10, 2011 20:05:11 GMT -5
You should not need to drain the oil to get to the stator. with the fabric you discovered I'm suspecting some messed up wiring. you should just go ahead and take it apart and survey the damage. Yes this very well may be the source of all your problems. Can't--don't have a spanner or the flypuller. It's a two-stroke and I don't even see threads in the middle of the bolt! I am including a pic of the bottom panel where my CDI and what appears to be an alarm and a couple of bundles of wires were all crammed and I can find no logical way to place them where they won't be compressed.. <sigh> Read somewhere to put multimeter leads at starter and ground wire and pressed the start button. Got only between 7-8, not 12. Put leads between starter and starter relay. Got between .05-.08. Nothing from negative battery to ground and full voltage between positive battery and relay. Don't understand how to set the multimeter and/or read it for most other tests I have read about. I have Centec 90899 and it looks like it doesn't go low enough on ohms.. Still trying to get the starter motor off to test it against the battery but it won't budge! Btw, I did replace the spark plug but I am not getting spark. Also, wrestling with throttle screw to access switches. I have two screws off but the bottom is stuck. Shined my flashlight in there and it appears pretty clean.. Any suggestions on any approach? p.s. Thanks for the manual--I already had it and it does help some! Attachments:
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Post by Rebel on Jun 10, 2011 21:10:02 GMT -5
Well, until you can get it apart you are kind of stuck.
As for how to pull the stator, hopefully one of the 2 t guys will chime in and give you some direction. Unfortunately one of them just went on a four day camping adventure.
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