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Post by kliff on Jul 5, 2009 9:40:36 GMT -5
Been running the Tracer for 2000+ miles like this now, with no problems, and 73 chino-ometers/hr and 8300 rpms on the Dauyona Digital Tach. I haven't got a lot of confidence in this speedo.....actual MPH, is probably in the low 60's.. Drilled air box.... 3ea. 1.5" holes. (1 stays taped over, unless I venture in excess of 4000'asl. I live at 440'asl)  Drilled muffler..... 2ea, 25/64" holes through outside, and fist baffle plate.... holes continued with longer bit, @3/8" through next 2 baffle plates.  Main Jet 110 Pilot Jet 36 Pilot setting, hot, running adjustment. Carbs are like women, caress them into the right spot, not like radios where you set the dial. EXHAUST NUTZ...I replace them with Stainless Steel 6.ommx30mm allen head bolts from ACE Hdwr., about 3 bux  REAR VEIW MIRRORSLocal bicycle shop, mountain bike mirrors, about 12.00 ea.  Biggest WASTE! Royal Purple oils.... |
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mrsg
Non-Com
STAFF SARGEANT, 1st Southern RECON DIV, Chatham Co., GA
Posts: 100
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Post by mrsg on Jul 5, 2009 10:19:50 GMT -5
Stop bashing the purple oil i am going to try!!!!!!
Other then that nice write up
Ray
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Post by harrywr2 on Jul 5, 2009 11:58:30 GMT -5
RP is saying 20w50 on an air cooled engine and 10w40 on a water cooled engine...claiming 'most manufacturers recommend'. Honda recommends 10w30 for a water cooled silverwing and most manufacturers recommend 10w40 for an air cooled bike. www.royalpurple.com/faqs-motorcycle.html |
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Post by rockhound on Jul 5, 2009 12:15:13 GMT -5
IMO delo 400 15-40 with 10% lucas oil treatment hard to beat in class 7 & 8 trucks.Lucas in 18 speed trany ran cooler.2nd choice rotella-t 15-40.
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Post by kuzikood on Jul 6, 2009 6:59:35 GMT -5
RP IS CRAP ? bummer.......... good thing i was always too poor and cheap to pay 8 bucks a quart for fluids or i would be mighty peeved
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Post by Rebel on Jul 6, 2009 12:00:23 GMT -5
Seems oil is a lot like religion, true believers never convert to another oil.
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mrsg
Non-Com
STAFF SARGEANT, 1st Southern RECON DIV, Chatham Co., GA
Posts: 100
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Post by mrsg on Jul 6, 2009 14:51:28 GMT -5
Well if facts are facts, you have to move on with rp. Either i call a fellow scooter brother a lair or i take his word that RP will screw my bike over so i think i will be moving to a new synthetic. Big question is what is good?
If it is a blend it need to be pre-blended for me?
So What would you use!
Ray
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Post by kuzikood on Jul 7, 2009 6:40:38 GMT -5
i switched to full syn penzoil i think cuz i got it for $1.79 a quart on close out i got 4 quarts it was all they had left and after about 300 miles no blowby etc but imediatly after switching i noticed it reved faster gained a lil accel and topend with no other miles but i did switch at 5k miles so id say it was broke in well lol
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Post by kuzikood on Jul 7, 2009 6:42:27 GMT -5
oh and previous to that i ran the rotella t which i personally feel is how i hit 5k miles floggin and over reving the whole way if i buy another scoot im gonna do the rotella at first and then switch to syn around 3k
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Post by Rocketdog on Jul 7, 2009 8:51:07 GMT -5
oh and previous to that i ran the rotella t which i personally feel is how i hit 5k miles floggin and over reving the whole way if i buy another scoot im gonna do the rotella at first and then switch to syn around 3k I'm with you Kuzi. At one time I ran Rotella 15w-40 in everything I owned. Diesel oils are are supposed to have more Zinc in them than comparable Auto oils. For those who don't know, and in this group probably not many, that's an anti scuff agent that's your engines last line of defense. I've had great service out of Rotella and think it works well, especially in an air cooled engine. I was warned of RP along time ago so I never tried it. As far as oils go I've tried alot of them. Most are very good. A good test for any oil is how well it works in a motorcycle transmission. Lots of shearing going on in there. A good dino oil works ok. Name brand synthetics, Castrol, Penziol, Mobile, shift much better. However the Semi synthetics shift just as well. They might not be able to hold up as well over an extended period of time, but I change mine often enough to where you can't notice. |
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Post by wayneb on Jul 7, 2009 11:05:33 GMT -5
About drilling the exhaust, I had seen another post somewhere about drilling out the
exhaust on the Roketa Bali, but can't seem to find it right now. Just wondering how much
louder was it after drilling the exhaust? And how much improvement was there from
drilling the exhaust and opening the airbox?
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Post by gtbike on Oct 7, 2009 18:57:35 GMT -5
Has anyone drilled out or modified a stock Lance Milan/Fly La Vie exhaust? I have access to a welder and could drill out a hole on the back of it and weld in a new larger diameter tube. The tube out the back is off center so it adds frustration to the options.  |
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Post by Rebel on Oct 7, 2009 19:11:08 GMT -5
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Post by gtbike on Oct 7, 2009 20:04:10 GMT -5
I'm on track for as close to $100 as possible upgrades and I know I can dig in the scrap bin at western metals and come up with a piece of tubing for $2 or less.
I'll re-jet the existing carb, do the uni-sock, try to open the muffler and probably buy the 115mm variator, some slider weights and a 842 belt and call it done.
I'm looking for a little better uphill speed, solid speed in the flats (though I already can do 55-60 on chinometer no problem) and lower overall RPM on WOT runs.
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Post by Rebel on Oct 7, 2009 23:06:41 GMT -5
gtbike,
That is probably the most sensible thing to do to one of these. Keep it cheap because the investment is not going to come back in the way of money. It sounds like you have a plan for the most bang for the buck.
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CAN YOU HELP ME OUT MAN,AS i LOST ME JOB DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO GET THERE?ANY INF