convert scooter to 12V DC Work in Progress

[rich]

Hi, Rich here, the admin on another forum. I thought I'd post a quick recap of how my AC to DC conversion played out. Before I do I'd like to apologize to anyone I've offended on this forum with hurtful or aggressive comments. I have more than my share of dark days and it comes through on forum speak sometimes. That is no excuse however for treating people with disrespect. Also, a certain nefarious creature conned me out of my password for this forum a while ago. He was banned here but insisted that he just needed to finish up some loose ends on some threads. He of course proceeded to wreck havoc with outrageous posts and images using my handle. So many of the offensive things you may have seen were not by my hand. That was one of the biggest bonehead moves of my life and I'm not sure there's an apology that even covers that.

I'll try to make this short....not my forte'. My original intent was to find a quick, inexpensive, plug and play rectifier/regulator that would allow a rider to easily convert to a DC system on a GY6 scooter using the OEM stator. I got one of the Universal R/Rs off of Amazon that their tech guy assured me would work with any GY6. Noday correctly advised me that it would burn up. So, after reading all the links Noday and Jimbo had graciously provided I finally realized the Trail Tech method would be the best option for keeping the OEM stator. Also, Trail Tech's R/R would have to be used.

As I'm sure you're all aware, the Trail Tech R/R works with two lighting coil wires on an ungrounded AC circuit. That meant pulling the GY6 stator and doing some mods to it. This is something I was trying to avoid so that it would be feasible for the novice scooterist but I soon realized it was unavoidable.

A potential problem with the GY6 stator that I saw was that the coil wrappings meander back in forth in a bizarre pattern as exemplified by some of the crossovers in this pic:

:

However, my reasoning was that it was still a contiguous wire coil and should produce AC current. This pic shows my original plan, I ended up not using a ground wire for the magneto coil as I thought the stator body bolted to the engine would provide an adequate ground, which it did:

The first thing to do was remove the yellow wire center tap and tape off the winding with high temp electrical tape:

Then the green ground wire and the white wire, which are actually the ends of the whole coil wrappings, would have to be released from their gronds and have extensions added:

Then mount the stator with the two new lighting coil wires tucked safely behind the flywheel:

Add flywheel:

Attach to Trail Tech R/R:

And crank it up with a good solid voltage:

One of the challenges with this R/R is that there can be no frame grounds, everything has to tie onto the battery. So with the rewiring of the stator and the grounding issue it certainly wasn't plug and play. But it is a realatively simple method for going DC if the forum members are willing to use a flywheel puller and a soldering gun. Rich

[Rocketdog]

Nicely done Rich. How long have you been running this setup, if I might ask? I'm going to try that out.

As for the comments, we've all done things we're not particularly proud of. Luckily for me the statue of limitations has run out on mine. Ahh most of them . And I have certainly said things that I wish I could take back.

Another Human Being,

RocketDog

[Rebel]

Rich is doing that to a scooter he calls "Frankenscoot" I think. It is an experimental toy, not a scooter that gets run around as a daily rider.

Yes, we do all do things that we are not sometimes proud of after a second look at the action. Unfortunately actions do damage to others and they often times take a long time to get over it, sometimes never.

Other human being.

[Deleted]

Oct 16, 2011 6:47:56 GMT -5 rich said:

Hi, Rich here, the admin on another forum. I thought I'd post a quick recap of how my AC to DC conversion played out. Before I do I'd like to apologize to anyone I've offended on this forum with hurtful or aggressive comments. I have more than my share of dark days and it comes through on forum speak sometimes. That is no excuse however for treating people with disrespect. Also, a certain nefarious creature conned me out of my password for this forum a while ago. He was banned here but insisted that he just needed to finish up some loose ends on some threads. He of course proceeded to wreck havoc with outrageous posts and images using my handle. So many of the offensive things you may have seen were not by my hand. That was one of the biggest bonehead moves of my life and I'm not sure there's an apology that even covers that.


As I told you a long time ago good friend,

if we frequent certain scooter parts arenas, we find our selves apologizing for, or scratching our heads as to their efficiency.

Often with great disappointment as to the ride we took with them.

A long time ago i decided it was better some times to go without, then to have sub standard.

And so importantly, it made a much safer ride for my real friends, who so often avoided me as a result of my bad purchase's

Most important decision of my life.

And most loving

[/color]

[tvnacman]

Hey , Rich

How are you doing ? Last we spoke you were talking about retiring frankenscoot .


John

[betaarkprorace]

im currently am using a beta ark pro race edition 50cc lc with an all stock stator and magnet stock rectifier and everything, i dont know anything and i mean anything abt electiric componets and parts, and how they really work,
no background and all i find this usefull in my stock stator with a high end engine ,powering a electric water pump ,electric oil pump, a dual radiator , , that would be my setup
can anyone help me how to do this if this is applicable to my ignition, and can you help me buy the certain parts i need for this, is this applicable to a 2t engine or my current electric stock components, i

my beta runs the cdi/ignition ducati energia
32395414 97 03
bianco W
rosso R
verde G
stop / _
thats whats in front of my cdi/coil
wire colors are
( white ,black&white,green(in a solo adapter - all in one adapter)
another green one that seems to be the ground
and another one that holds and connects the plug cap)

((a rectifier 4 pins in lined horizontally donno if original
t5.n231
sh634-12)) rectifier

(((an italmec relay with 5 pins 12v 101
85 | 87 | 87*
/ - - - /
86 | | 30
from atop view ..

is it posisible to have the same electric power as you all seem to have by adding the RR And some componets you have , i think by the model of my cdi coil mine is the one with the pulser on top like the old ones used around the dio 1 era this version i read comes with the 5 and 4 pins if im correct and theres a newer version with the same number of coils and with them is the pulser together with the coils covered by the magnet inside & the latest version i think was the i dont exactly know the number of coils but i think its more than 8 or so . the first 3 coil variants, the stock that i first said that i use, the next with the plus one or minus one wire, the coil with the pulsed together in the circle with them, all of which have the 5 or 6 coils im not sure but some of you do.. and lastly the late and newest one the 8-9 or more coils.. which one of all has the best output to give to have a efficient engine. and which has the overall power balance in engine and lights and acc to be added,
can anyone give the diff in all of them, and whish is best for my use,

now lastly i wanna get a finely tuned high end full race engine parts and evrything but i wanna use a ignition that can make me still use my lights ,

+i saw the *malossi sellerta mhr team 2011* inner rotor digitronic module
they say is over all best in power output capability,

+*cdi mallosi without imobilizer* with integrated rev limiter that can put back it can be reactivated

+the s6 *internal rotor ignition* with pvl

+the polini *ignition unit polini digital * pure racing ignition with 4 mapping setting

+the polini evolution internal that im not sure if lights work, the pvl,, which is somewhat like same as malossi but cheaper ,

and the *ignition unit polini evolution 2013" special racing ignition that describes itself as diff to common internal racing ignition systems , its one of the classic battery driven one , they say this polini is like of the f1 digital ignition but i have no idea really how it works, i read and in my interpretation it connects to the battery and the energy is not produced by the rotor/stator combination but from the baterry & this gets rid of the rotor and stator so the only ignition left is the
pick-up-incl & module whatever that is, the arrangement minimises rotating mass at the crankshaft furtermore no engine power lost to genarating the electric energy, it comsumes 0.7 ah and a batery of 4.5ah can grant a non stop use of approx 6 hrs, ------for me it simply sez you use a battery plug it and it uses that like its a normal baterry and drains it w/o charging that usually happens when youre using the bike , but why has it stil have a internal rotor sized thing in the crank stator side ?

which is the best one to use both on the street and track?
what among these ignitions will deliver overall power thru start mid and end , ?

if not a ignition with working lights is the best and will be chosen as to my knowledge the polini has the only one that has that option, if not give the specific make name and model also if the other one or more has the working lights function, bec i might buy one that has lights and one that hasnt if theres no other choice..?

, what can we add buy or add or do to or choose that we can add an option to make a chosen potential not as good igniton but is better tha the polini that we can make a way to make work with a light with minor or major components added and options,,

the street set would be an 70 or 80 cc with light,

any suggestions as to what brand of crank namely high end ranging price not lower than 450$ but can be high as 700$ tha i can both use in streeet and full tuned race, with an option of using a mid race , street sport, 50 70 80 and 90 cc cylinder. in the given ccs crank must consist of having best weight , diameter thickness , parts options in buying them bec i live in the phillipines, i the best has a limited cc range like 70 80 and 90cc then lets go with that option.. ty very much for future comments as this will help me in nariwwing my options thru yourr experience ad know how

[betaarkprorace]

by the way whats the original stator of a beta engine 050 and magnet plus mount . mine i think is not an original one anymore & can anyone tell me whats 050.0941 engine

one more thing please help me chose the best crank for race and will be used for street thats interchngable with almost any cylinder brand and storke size friendly,,,

you can add me up at jerver asistio my face book and [e-mail] my email but mostly ofte use facebook

[betaarkprorace]

sorry everyone , & hi , im jerver from the phillipines , a scooter rider like you guys , know some stuff but eager to know all there is to help others beside myself, got an italian beta ark 50 cc pro race model with the stock parts mostly lost, hoping to have and restore all parts to understand the bike then like you tune it up and race

[betaarkprorace]

[this is a good one hhope you can walk me thru this coz i dont know much anything about electricity in bikes
hope this qouting is right if not sorry again its my first time doing this
quote author="rich" source="/post/14354/thread" timestamp="1318765676"]Hi, Rich here, the admin on another forum. I thought I'd post a quick recap of how my AC to DC conversion played out. Before I do I'd like to apologize to anyone I've offended on this forum with hurtful or aggressive comments. I have more than my share of dark days and it comes through on forum speak sometimes. That is no excuse however for treating people with disrespect. Also, a certain nefarious creature conned me out of my password for this forum a while ago. He was banned here but insisted that he just needed to finish up some loose ends on some threads. He of course proceeded to wreck havoc with outrageous posts and images using my handle. So many of the offensive things you may have seen were not by my hand. That was one of the biggest bonehead moves of my life and I'm not sure there's an apology that even covers that.

I'll try to make this short....not my forte'. My original intent was to find a quick, inexpensive, plug and play rectifier/regulator that would allow a rider to easily convert to a DC system on a GY6 scooter using the OEM stator. I got one of the Universal R/Rs off of Amazon that their tech guy assured me would work with any GY6. Noday correctly advised me that it would burn up. So, after reading all the links Noday and Jimbo had graciously provided I finally realized the Trail Tech method would be the best option for keeping the OEM stator. Also, Trail Tech's R/R would have to be used.

As I'm sure you're all aware, the Trail Tech R/R works with two lighting coil wires on an ungrounded AC circuit. That meant pulling the GY6 stator and doing some mods to it. This is something I was trying to avoid so that it would be feasible for the novice scooterist but I soon realized it was unavoidable.

A potential problem with the GY6 stator that I saw was that the coil wrappings meander back in forth in a bizarre pattern as exemplified by some of the crossovers in this pic:

:

However, my reasoning was that it was still a contiguous wire coil and should produce AC current. This pic shows my original plan, I ended up not using a ground wire for the magneto coil as I thought the stator body bolted to the engine would provide an adequate ground, which it did:

The first thing to do was remove the yellow wire center tap and tape off the winding with high temp electrical tape:

Then the green ground wire and the white wire, which are actually the ends of the whole coil wrappings, would have to be released from their gronds and have extensions added:

Then mount the stator with the two new lighting coil wires tucked safely behind the flywheel:

Add flywheel:

Attach to Trail Tech R/R:

And crank it up with a good solid voltage:

One of the challenges with this R/R is that there can be no frame grounds, everything has to tie onto the battery. So with the rewiring of the stator and the grounding issue it certainly wasn't plug and play. But it is a realatively simple method for going DC if the forum members are willing to use a flywheel puller and a soldering gun. Rich[/quote]

Oct 17, 2011 17:32:46 GMT -5 Rocketdog said:

Nicely done Rich. How long have you been running this setup, if I might ask? I'm going to try that out.

As for the comments, we've all done things we're not particularly proud of. Luckily for me the statue of limitations has run out on mine. Ahh most of them . And I have certainly said things that I wish I could take back.

Another Human Being,

RocketDog

[Rebel]

You are asking questions I can not help you with, hopefully sombody else will chime in.