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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 9, 2016 17:39:47 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. No, I got the impression he tested the scoot after the slider change, Not his wife. But I wonder where he is ?
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Post by Rebel on Aug 9, 2016 21:30:06 GMT -5
He lives in Arkansas, near Petite Jean I think is the name of the town.
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 10, 2016 22:28:01 GMT -5
Finally got my $64 to my door Bike Master Gel battery today. Now I can start doing marked variator tests as I make time for it here and there. She ran pretty good today considering shes been sitting for months now.
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 13, 2016 23:27:17 GMT -5
I have only ridden about 20 miles and my scooter quits . I got it running just long enough to get it home 3 hrs. later. I believe the fuel pump quit. The JCLs is a 2007, So the fuel pump could be as many as 11 yrs. old. So what am I gonna say , Right ?
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 15, 2016 10:32:20 GMT -5
Top end is gained by adding use able rpms ones that still make power First thing to do is take a sharpie and mark up the I side of the varatior and go for a good wot run and see if your going all the way up. If not then roller change will help. You might get a couple mph if the whole system allows better flow if you add the pipe and carb. Can the valve springs cam and head flow enough air and support more rpms I should do this first though as advice to make sure I'm not just trying to wash my troubles away with spending unnecessary $ . It will be hard to tell though because I will have to go down hill here somewhere. And that will let my variator let my belt travel out because of lack of resistance (again going down hill). I know ! I will not go WOT until and only on flat ground. That might keep my experiment untainted. Of coarse once I get my fuel pump and get it back on the road. "God" I hope it's the fuel pump !
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 18, 2016 1:15:20 GMT -5
So far it looks like it fixed the problem (Fuel pump). Then put my scooter up on the center stand and took it up to the rev limiter a couple times to find out where it topped out. The RPM went up to about 8400 without breaking up at all. Any higher and the RPM was unstable. But it would go up to about 8700 as indicated on the not so precise scooter tach. What that means is I might get my 5 mph on top if my variator isn't maxing out already. And 16.7 HP will haul my 260 lbs any faster than it already will go. While I've got the belly and side exposed I am gonna do a much needed valve adjustment. " Again " About the 4 th one I've done. "THEN" next on the agenda will be that Marking the inside of the variator test we talked about
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Post by Rebel on Aug 18, 2016 13:51:29 GMT -5
Yeah if the fuel pump was starving the motor out it would affect the top end performance, you may have fixed it.
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 18, 2016 16:39:30 GMT -5
That would be to cool ! The bad fuel pump was big enough to run a dump truck for God's sake. The lawn mower fuel pump I put in it pumps enough fuel to run an automobile. No I don't think that was what was limiting my top end. I don't think it ever acted like the float bowel was running empty. But you never know I guess. I'm putting new fuel line on it from tank to carb right now. No sense having a broken fuel line stranding me over $ 6.50 worth of hose. Especially while I'm right there working on it. As said I will at least adjust the exhaust valve while I have my custom made belly pan trap door off too.
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 20, 2016 22:55:18 GMT -5
New fuel pump would starve out the motor at about sustained 60 mph running. I can't understand why because when I pulled the hose off the carb so I could turn the motor over and see how much fuel it pumps with each engine vacuum pulse it pumped plenty to run a 250. Hell, It looked like enough to run a car ! So anyway I put another new fuel pump I have on the scooter, Adjusted the exhaust valve while I was right in the area of the belly. Started her up with no issues. In a tuck it will get my 260 lbs butt up to about 71. But still couldn't go any faster than 64-68 one up top speed. I may put that 32mm carb I got in the mail today on tomorrow. I hope it's won't become a nightmare to make run right.
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Post by Rebel on Aug 21, 2016 14:38:31 GMT -5
Have you done a plug check to see if it is running lean?
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 21, 2016 21:08:02 GMT -5
No , To tell you the truth I have only checked the plug when I changed it to an NGK. I do remember at the time the color was on the lean side of beige . That was close enough for me . It was right in the "Lean Is Mean" zone. Not white lean. Well, I put in the 32 mm carb today. Lost some acceleration and gained ZIP / nodda on the top end. It has a main jet the size between a #56 and 57 drill bit. I know because I checked. The seller said it is a 125 main jet (no markings) I think. I will at least have to back off to a 115 Main jet ? I would bet money I'm running rich. Havn't checked the plug yet. Got dark on me. BTW I bet this 32mm carb is no more than a mm bigger than the Japanese made stock carb. Definitely do not buy one of these. Just mod your own. Save $100 c
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on Aug 22, 2016 18:52:24 GMT -5
With modern fuels plug reading has changed a lot. On 2 strokes we look for a smoke ring at base of the plug here is a good place to get ideas for a 4 stroke www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/how-to-read-plugs.htmlYes it's for cars but the info is the same This is one time to use your kill switch at wot I like to warm the scoot up on the old plug carefully change the plug while it's warm This way you don't get your plug painted by the pj and needle adjustments With the new plug in romp on it right up to wot I like a half mile to a mile While still holding wot kill the engine and brake or coast to a stop I normally bring the old plug with me pull the read plug out and head home to look at the read plug
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 22, 2016 23:10:16 GMT -5
Sounds like a solid plan to get a correct WOT read. I Read your link. Looks like good info. Get this, After all this I put my 115 main out of my old Jap 30 mm carb in the new 32 mm , New carb ran great then ! But no better readings from the tach and speedo than my old carb. I think it had a sleight edge on my old carb in the mid range. But not enough difference to change much. So what that means is if they will take this 32 mm back I want a refund. Back to what you were talking about jmkjr72, I need to cut a port hole in my tunnel body work to get at my spark plug easier on this JCL MP 250A . This is what is hampering my efforts as far as reading the spark plug.
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Post by 4950cycle on Aug 25, 2016 22:36:57 GMT -5
Finally got my old carb back together and got it back in my JCL 257cc. "THEN" I leave the driveway on a test run and something gets sucked up in the main jet I figure . Blasted up the small hill from my driveway entrance. Ran great for 200 + yards got to the top of the hill and started starving and sputtering. All I can figure is the WOT up the hill sucked a piece of debris right up against the bottom of the main jet I guess. I'm starting to get a complex here. Someone doesn't want me to ride I'm starting to think ? I can't get a block down the road without something lousing up on this otherwise good running scoot.
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Post by Rebel on Aug 25, 2016 22:40:02 GMT -5
Well make sure the carb is clean before you put it back together.
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