Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jun 21, 2016 11:03:20 GMT -5
The question is can I get by riding for say two weeks without that bolt replaced? We can't seem to get it out and I was thinking of just getting a replacement part/gasket set and start over? Thoughts? I'm asking because as many might remember I am diagnosed with PTSD/Bipolar with service-connection and riding seems to help with my symptoms.
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Post by Rebel on Jun 21, 2016 12:35:40 GMT -5
Go down to the hardware store or auto parts place and just get the bolt you need an put it in there. They will usually be helpful enough to help y9u get the right size and grade of bolt.
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Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jun 21, 2016 15:30:19 GMT -5
I got the bolt but I don't want to take the part or the motor off/out to get the bolt. I mean who am I fooling I am a 270# fat guy on 150cc Scooter...I get the feeling maybe I should not own a bike period. Something always breaks after I'm down to my last few bucks for the month and then I can't ride again for another month...I appreciate all the help I really do but I think I'm going to fix the part and then sell it.
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Post by Rebel on Jun 21, 2016 20:34:43 GMT -5
Don't be so hard on yourself, a lot of people that ride these are your/our size.
Listen, one of the things we tell people that order these on the internet and get it delivered in a box is to check all the nuts and bolts because people have had some come loose and ruin the motor. You may have just been the victim of a poorly torqued bolt from the factory.
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on Jun 21, 2016 21:06:01 GMT -5
My bet is it was just a poor quailty bolt. The problem may be that when it broke it didn't break straight and that there is a bit of a bend. Is there enough room to get a nut and a jam nut on the back to try and start pushing it out I would be afraid to pull it through not knowing if there is an unthreaded shoulder still left on the bolt. Make sure to hit it with pb nut buster steel and al don't play well together and use anti seize on the new bolt. The new bolt I would use grade 8 as its part of your suspension
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on Jun 21, 2016 21:07:27 GMT -5
I'm not much lighter and my other half is a big girl and we have 50s and even rode 2 up on my 150
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Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jun 22, 2016 11:09:14 GMT -5
Thanks, I'm just a bit frustrated. I need to ride the dam thing and it just seems like I'm getting more time staring at it then riding.
I will likely wait till the 1st of the month then mess with it at this point. That way if I make it worse I will at the very least be able to replace the part if I decide one way or the other.
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Post by crawford on Jun 22, 2016 18:35:41 GMT -5
remember it's a metric bolt
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Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jul 1, 2016 14:04:33 GMT -5
So guys, I tried to drill it out because my friend couldn't make it over to help me. Rather than trying to pull the right case off and take it to him. I didn't pull the part because when I got the fan off I saw the stator wheel which has a sensor like on a Lincoln Engine motor camshaft sensor for timing etc...but now I have to anyway.
As I attempted to use the bolt extractor kit...I inadvertently at some point turned it up & to the right making the hole too big and still didn't get the dam bolt out.
Now I have to buy the part take that stator off.
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Post by Rebel on Jul 1, 2016 20:32:58 GMT -5
Sorry to hear that, I personally hate drilling out and using an easy out myself, seems I always get off center with the drill.
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Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jul 5, 2016 17:23:41 GMT -5
I got the parts waiting on the tool to arrive. I have a few questions to ask before I start.
Do I have to replace the keyway when I reinstall the flywheel? Is there a trick to installing the crankcase oil seal?
Anything I might be forgetting?
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Post by Rebel on Jul 5, 2016 23:56:24 GMT -5
You do not have to replace the key, not a horrible idea though, when they fall there is no warning but not usually a high fail rate in my experience unless the flywheel is not torque tight enough. The seal should be pressed in with something that evenly will push it in place, I usually use a socket that is the same size. You need to put some oil on the wiping surface of the seal. here is a PDF with useful information www.sealing.com/fileadmin/docs/Lip_Seal_Installation.pdfhere is a nice video made by Brent
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Quib
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RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jul 6, 2016 6:05:29 GMT -5
Thanks for everything guys, it really means the world to me to have some support. Haven't had a lot of that in my life thus far.
Even though it might not mean that much to answer someone's posts for some it might be their only support in this subject matter.
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Quib
Recruit
RIDING MAN
Posts: 42
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Post by Quib on Jul 8, 2016 14:11:31 GMT -5
By the way there was no Key in the keyway when I got the flywheel off. By the way I couldn't use the puller I purchased. I had to go to Harbor Freight to get something else.
Now I'm waiting for a Die to clean up the threads on the spindle so I can put it all back together.
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Post by Rebel on Jul 8, 2016 20:21:01 GMT -5
sometimes threads can be cleaned up with a triangular file if you are very careful and they are not to fine.
Autozone has a tool loan program and might have a die you can just barrow.
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