Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2012 1:15:32 GMT -5
we had a guy here who had blow by oil on a all most new engine, which he ( or someone ) ran it with the shipping fish oil in it till 2/3 of it was gone.
this thing smoked white blue.
then it stopped.
he says he put some thing in the head to loosen the rings up from the con geilled shipping oil.
all i remember was he soaked it all night and kept changing oil.
some of the guys here may know this type of situation better then me.
My bike shed attracts fog, some days even with a new engine, i get "Vapor Smoke" for a short while
good luck brother and please post results
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Post by Rebel on Aug 21, 2012 1:29:52 GMT -5
He probably used some Marvels Mystery Oil or just something like it.
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Post by sharp9 on Aug 21, 2012 3:27:11 GMT -5
Not sure how many actual miles. Speed and odometer stopped working around 400 miles. Don't know how many miles on it after that. Only time PO used it was riding thru campground and not sure how original owner maintained it.
Ran like a charm before this problem. No smoke(white/blue)and would go 35-40 top speed on flat ground when i would ride next to him( have another Roketa 50cc).Guess its time to take it to someone with more knowledge and patience for this than I do.
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Post by Rebel on Aug 22, 2012 0:57:30 GMT -5
really they are not hard to work on. Ever done any work on motors?
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Post by sharp9 on Aug 22, 2012 3:13:16 GMT -5
Yes I have and what I've worked on this one isn't too bad. Do you have to pull the motor off to put a kit in or can you do it all with motor still in place? Seems like you can get to a lot of it if the body panels were off.
If u was to get a BBK with a new head I'm guessing use old valves, springs, rocker arms , and cam on new one or does kit come with new valves? Going to do more research on it tomorrow. Is there any references on the Internet for me to look at or read on how to perform this job?
You said earlier not to get a kit that requires block to b bored out. What is a big bore kit and how does it work if block is not bored out?
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jmkjr72
contributing staff
Commander 132nd Northern Cav. Division
Posts: 2,779
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Post by jmkjr72 on Aug 22, 2012 17:29:28 GMT -5
some kits have a larger piston skirt this allows you to run a larger piston the larger piston skirt will need the case to be bored to fit the larger skirt
i have dont them in scooter on a 2 stroke but 4 strokes have more to deal with it would be a lot easier to do on a bench then in the scoot
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Post by Rebel on Aug 22, 2012 18:05:35 GMT -5
Yeah it is probably not any harder to pull the motor than to pull all the plastics off. It is your call. I would try and get away with not boring out the case. A 70cc kit might work or you can just replace it with a standard bore lit but those are in less demand and more expensive.
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Post by sharp9 on Aug 22, 2012 19:41:57 GMT -5
Think I'm going to try it. Looked online for a tutorial and found one (looked simple enough). Pulling engine looked pretty easy also. Just keeping things labeled to where they go
Is there something I need to check before ordering a kit from eBay?should I get everything apart and measure bore of old case before ordering or are they standard bore?
Also what size jets would you recommend for carb afterward?( idle and main). Also can the stock air filter b used or will it need one of the cone filters?
Thanks for all your help. Glad there's people like yourselves out there willing to talk us thru our troubles
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Post by Rebel on Aug 23, 2012 0:44:17 GMT -5
Jet size seems to be different for a lot of people. Most people have to try a few sizes before they get it dialed in. You can use the original air cleaner, they have the advantage of being water proof, the aftermarket foam or K&N type are out in the elements but do offer more air flow making it a leaner running air fuel mixture and requiring a larger jet. You will find some very useful links in this post scooterrebels.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=50ccscooters&action=display&thread=328
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2012 3:15:19 GMT -5
often times the folks who sell you a kit can give you a good idea of what to run with.
if you pull engene use baggies with post it note to keep track of where is what.
heat and humidity can make a change out hell, so a good space can make a world of difference.
if it is a good one ,,,your stock air filter is one of the best, and it most times draws air in that is not as hot as something over the engine.
if you want a little more air and have to clean it a little less often, see if it has a back fire retard plate on back of paper, if you pull that off you have more CFM's of air, this plate lays right aganst the paper.
I clean mine by wet vacing and then spraying water from the back side out, or in reverse of air flow, once wet i spray it with break cleaner and spray water thru again-GENTLY.
then vac dry gently,,,, then dry it bone dry with hair dryer, you may want to test filter with break cleaner in a small space to make sure yours is paper
WE HAVE MICRO RED DUST HERE and it can fill a filter tho it looks clean, doing above i always get pink water off a yellow filter.
never pook at wet filter paper, while wet it is very soft.
Tiny red bulb filters look cool but are famious for being hell to tune.
hope this helps you get riding up soon
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Post by sharp9 on Aug 23, 2012 16:34:55 GMT -5
Ok have engine out and apart. Pretty easy so far. Nice to have step by step instructions(thanks REBEL).
Going to order kit soon but as I was looking online the wanted to know what size valves. How can you tell if you have 64 or 69 mm valves?
Also don't have a caliper to measure cylinder size. Saw some kits for 44mm and 47mm cylinders. If I measured with a ruler or tape measure what would those measurements be to make sure I order correct kut
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Post by sharp9 on Aug 23, 2012 19:51:41 GMT -5
Forgot my engine is stamped 1p39QMB
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Post by Rebel on Aug 24, 2012 0:15:41 GMT -5
You can just measure their size if you have a set of calipers. If you are getting a kit with head it should be fine.
I do not know the difference in the 139qmb and the 1p39qmb. In a 150 their are some significant differences so when you order your parts be sure and ask for the 1P39qmb parts.
On the 150 "P" the studs are a little wider apart so that is important to know. The 139 I just don't know.
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Post by Rebel on Aug 24, 2012 1:10:27 GMT -5
A lot of people say that the 139qmb can not handle big bore kits over 72 cc and have a long life, they claim that the crank bearings will not hold up. I just do not know one way or the other, I found this kit on ebay that is available for the P motor, it has a taller head by the way, so I imagine longer cylinder studs. On nice thing is that it has 5 gm weights for the variator. big bore kit
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Post by zakkwoodruff123 on Jun 17, 2013 10:36:20 GMT -5
I bought this scooter from a friend for my son. It ran good for a couple weeks and stopped running. Was always a lil hard to start( had to hold throttle open a little while cranking to start) This is what I've done so far to help i Changed spark plug New fuel filter( inline) Adjusted the valves to .002 intake and .002 exhaust new carburetor(stock) Here is where I am now. It will start and idle good but at WOT white smoke comes out of exhaust at around 6000rpm and looses power. I checked main jets on both carbs and on new it is 75 with a adjustable needle( put c clip at top). Old carb had 78 main jet with a fixed needle. Any help with this situation would be great.
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