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Post by thechad0420 on May 13, 2010 9:26:36 GMT -5
ok i need to pull the right and left crankcase apart but their is small gear behind the variator its pressed on.has anyone done this if so whats the best way to get it off without messen up case thanks guys
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Post by Rebel on May 13, 2010 11:08:33 GMT -5
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Post by kliff on May 13, 2010 13:47:32 GMT -5
First one of those I ran up on, gave me fits! The gear is a taperred fit, and literraly locks itself on the shaft after tha variator has been torqued down. A slender 2 jaw puller should pop it free, I tried every combination of 2 and 3 jaw I had, and NOTHING would get in there, so I made a simple little puller....lemme sho you... That yaller thangie...  Just a simple bridge puller. I used a piece of 1" square steel tubing for the bridge, and 2 3/8" bolts for the pullers. One side of each ground away for installation. When sliding it in place, the ground away part, goes in next to the gear teeth. Then when in place, rotate them 180 degrees, to put some meet behind the gear, start tightenning up the 2 upper 3/8" nuts, and it'll pop off so easy, you'll cuss....  PS the long draw bar, at the bottom of the first pic, and the "H" bar above it, are also used as part of the assembly... If you need a better pic, holler, I can sanap a couple more. |
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Post by Rocketdog on May 13, 2010 19:24:36 GMT -5
DUDE!!! Good to see your post Kliff.
RD
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Post by thechad0420 on May 14, 2010 7:50:41 GMT -5
i went to the scooter shop. the guy their told me he took a blow torch got the stupid pressed on kikstart gear hot. then took a rubber hammer hit the crank shaft till it popped off. so i tryd it. works good to
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Post by Rocketdog on May 14, 2010 18:51:06 GMT -5
Glad things worked out well. One word of advise. Be careful putting that kind of heat on Chinese cast aluminum. Unlike steel, it gives you no notice when it's going to turn to liquid. I would use a heat gun. If it's anything like their steel, it isn't quit up to Western standards. The steel welds weird.
RD
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Post by Rebel on May 15, 2010 0:58:48 GMT -5
Heating works, I was always told it is the method of last resort.
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rob
Cadet
Posts: 26
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Post by rob on May 15, 2010 2:50:37 GMT -5
Glad someone else mentioned the dangers . I started to .... but I'm new here . If it must be done with heat ; clean everything and make heat shields . Cut up tin can usually works . And always have a fire extinguisher before you strike a torch . Be safe . Rob
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Post by Rebel on May 15, 2010 3:04:35 GMT -5
rob,
Don't worry about speaking up. Chad got the job done and good for him. We all just want to offer options for doing or fixing things here and it is my hope that people can have a civil conversation about projects being worked on. I like the puller option and probably would have done it a little differently than Kliff did, but then I'm a bit more shade tree than he is.
On a side note, many years ago I took a torch to an aluminum can, the fumes it gave off as it melted and burned made me choke and I honestly was concerned about my well being for a few minutes so I'm a little shy of heating up aluminum anyway.
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Post by kliff on May 15, 2010 3:56:37 GMT -5
Heat will work 99.9999% of the time. Even if used incorrectly, it is, has, and always will be my last resort, but it is a good method, just not one I recommend, because too many things can go wrong.
Doing it different, huh Dougie? GREAT! Problems like this are made to make us think, improvise and adapt. My way was formulated by the tools and materials I had on hand, improvise and adapt....think outside the box.
Rob... got an idea, opinion, even a critism(SP)....jump in man. Knowledge is a pool we all dip into. besides, I stay in the back room mostly now, so my "over advertised" temper and lack of patience stays at bay. I seldom post unless called upon, but help in any way I can via PM's. So don't let my presence scare you off, enjoy.
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rob
Cadet
Posts: 26
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Post by rob on May 15, 2010 5:08:37 GMT -5
Ty . I just feel awkward ... not having a scooter myself atm but i think i found one new for about 850 shipped . But the seller is only 50 miles from where i live . When he wakes up I'll ask how much it is if i pick it up . Rob
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Post by thechad0420 on May 15, 2010 9:52:53 GMT -5
thanks guys for the good info i like this side ima stay on this one. dont worry i was safe heating up that gear i set the flame low and just made sure i put it on just the gear. i now that case would melt real quick if not careful  |
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Post by Rebel on May 15, 2010 12:41:38 GMT -5
Ty . I just feel awkward ... not having a scooter myself atm but i think i found one new for about 850 shipped . But the seller is only 50 miles from where i live . When he wakes up I'll ask how much it is if i pick it up . Rob So what are you looking at, let us know, and who are you buying from? |
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Post by rugged150guy on May 30, 2010 6:20:52 GMT -5
Thanx for the help Rebel. Hope to get it off today. Wow didn't realize the Rugged 150 was such a rare bird.Shame bout the mag, I would've suscribed in a heartbeat. I was wonderin Reb, Got that ugly ass plastic housing that wraps around the top end of my engine,you wouldn't happen to know whether it would create any problems by takin it off and gettin rid of it would you? Don't see how it would, specially in the summer. I guess it would take a little longer to warm up in the winter. Anyhow thanx again for the help
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Post by Rebel on May 30, 2010 12:45:20 GMT -5
The ugly plastic you are referring to is wrapped close to the motor I'm guessing, keeps you from seeing the cylinder? If so that is part of the forced air cooling and I wouldn't take that off unless you were living on the North Pole.
Ya, I don't understand why more of the Rugged models are not sold, except that the tend to cost more than the regular street model scooters of the same size.
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CAN YOU HELP ME OUT MAN,AS i LOST ME JOB DUE TO NOT BEING ABLE TO GET THERE?ANY INF